Sewing needles are the smallest but very important part of any sewing machine.

Compared to other parts, sewing needles experience the greatest stress. Therefore, the quality of the stitch and the appearance of many defects in work depend on the condition of the needle, its type and settings. sewing machine.

Needles for household sewing machines

The number of varieties and types of needles for household sewing machines increased in stages along with improvements and changes in household sewing machines and sewing techniques.

The following are descriptions of the various elements and constituent parts sewing machine needles

Parameters of sewing machine needles

Refined needle point
The key to better sewing. When the eye of the needle penetrates the product, the greatest pressure of the needle on the fabric occurs. To prevent damage to the material in these places (tears), the thinned needle point has reduced needle pressure on the material. In the latest designs of Organ needle heads, such as the “KN” and “SF”, the heads are long and thin, which is particularly well suited for thin knitted (woven) fabrics.

Needle point marking(click on the picture to enlarge it)

If the needle is chosen correctly, then the stitch will look beautiful and there will be no damage to the material.

	needle eye Denim needles Then the iron wire was forged later. Today, needles must meet high requirements. They must be substantially free of rust and flex so that they do not break at the same time, as well as not subject to permanent deformation and bent in a bend. Nowadays, these requirements are met with high quality needles, because special brass or steel mixtures ensure that the needles are not too hard and therefore brittle, while still having high bending stiffness. In addition, high-quality needles are well disassembled, so that small cracks do not damage the fabric. Of the types of machines, there are 2 types of sewing machine needles. The piston is round on all sides. Other common systems can be found here: Needle of needles for needles. Which system the required needle belongs to, can be found in the manual for the sewing machine. It's not a problem. Differences are difficult to discern with the naked eye. Therefore, it is better to store a package of needles, the purchase is the easiest. The smooth passage of the thread through the eye at high sewing speed is ensured by the streamlined eye of the needle and the outer shape. Due to the fact that the inner side of the eyelet is smooth, there is no interlacing and tearing of the thread.
	Groove (notch) In addition, the requirements for sewing machine needles are much higher and more difficult than for hand sewing needles. They should not run hot even at high sewing speed, so as not to deform, the deburring inside the eyes of the needle must be so perfect that the thread does not break at high sewing speed. Thick thin fabrics, leather and artificial leather, woven and knitted fabrics require different needles. The regular sewing machine needle tip looks pointed even if it has a slight rounding to push the fabric and not damage the fabric. However, for stretchy fabrics such as jersey, jersey or spandex blends, it is recommended to stretch the sewing machine or knitwear needle with a spherical tip. This prevents the needle from becoming entangled in the fabric thread in the case of knitted fabrics and malformed threads from being drawn into the fabric or stuck in the elastomeric thread. The shape of the groove (notch) is decisive for a good loop creation. The groove of the needle serves to perfectly follow the thread and prevents the thread from binding when the needle penetrates the material. There are various forms of needle grooves. Organ “OSP” needles have a rounded groove edge to protect the material. The groove shape of Organ “SRG/SGL” needles prevents loose fabrics (such as cord) from separating. How to Check Sewing Needle Bent For the same reason, a particularly fine tip has a microneedle, which is used with microfibers and especially fine fabrics. Needle needle - no thickness needle. 90 or 100 which is specially cured to withstand very strong and dense fabric. And then there is the leather needle, which microscopically looks like a small knife. The needle cleans effectively in leather and artificial leather and can penetrate better without tearing the material. All of these needles are available in both flat and round pistons. Right picture: you have 2 needles on the piston. It is also necessary to wind the top two threads into the sewing machine. Because only one bobbin thread comes from the spool that wraps around both top threads, a zigzag stitch pattern is created on the bottom side of the fabric and 2 seam stitches on the top side. The stretch seam can be designed as a seam for knitwear, sweatshirts and stretchy garments. They are only available as flat needles, i.e. for household machines. In the industrial sector, these seams are created with special overlay machines. The previously used round groove is now largely replaced by the “Pontoon” groove, as this allows a better loop formation and prevents damage to the presser foot.
	Needle shaft Varieties of needle cores: They are given no. 3, i.e. thick 5 and 7 - no. 9, i.e. OK. They are available in many variations such as long or semi-straight, straight and curved, blunt or pointed, and applications can vary greatly. In addition to the usual straight needles, which in their fineness, as far as the size of the eyes of the needle, must be adapted to the thickness of the thread, while the length of the needle is often a matter of taste, especially long and thin needles are used for threading. Blunt needles with a particularly large eye are designed for cross-stitching on special fabrics and sharp needles for fine decorative fabrics. shortened needle bars. doubly shortened needle cores. The design of the needle bar determines the force with which the needle will pierce the fabric and its life.
	Needle flask The diameter of the needle bulb is of great importance, because. the needle holder in the sewing machine has a certain size. Right: They are half-curved and curved so that they can be inserted into the upholstery, An indispensable needle for repairs between or for temporary fastening. Here you can also see the difference between quality products: they are beautifully pointed and do not damage the fabric, even if they are a little thicker. Available in many different sizes and dimensions. Metal head studs, 500g presentation, have something rougher and cheaper or extra long and extra fine. They have the advantage that when the fingers are inserted through the large head of the pin. Sewing Machine Needles are available in different designs. The choice of needles is suitable for the respective fabric. We can offer a wide and varied selection of sewing needles that can be used for a variety of sewing techniques and fabrics. We recommend that you always keep a small supply of needles at home and change needles more often. If the bulb of the needle does not match the size of the holder, this may cause a problem the moment you decide to insert the needle into the holder. Round and flat flasks are different. Some systems have a round flask with a recess for securing the needle. In principle, each type of household sewing machine needle is coded (designed) for the specific sewing machine in which it will be used. Needles for sewing machines in a wide range Blunt needles can damage fabric and no longer guarantee the same professional results as needle punch machines. You can find an assortment of leather needles that achieve great results on leather or jean needles that can work optimally on denim. In addition, punch needles, Tension needles Microtex needles, overlock needles and double needles are part of our range - as well as quilting needles or an embroidery needle, even for very thick threads or wool threads. Arm your sewing machine with the appropriate accessories and rely on the high quality and durability of sewing needles with which sewing is a pleasure.

Often, many sewing masters in the process of work often face fairly common problems of skipping a stitch or poor quality stitching. Changing all kinds of sewing machine settings or alternating different types of stitches, as a rule, does not radically change the situation for the better, and then it is usually customary to attribute everything to the poor quality of the equipment or the manufacturer’s dishonesty.
Check out some helpful tips to avoid some problems.

1. The sewing needle can cause stitching defects

Sewing machine needles should be carefully choose not only "under the fabric", but also the thread used. In any manual for the sewing machine there are recommendations for the use of threads and needles, be sure to follow these requirements. Skipped stitches, needle breakage, thread breakage, thread loops in the stitching are often caused by the wrong size or type of needle being used on the sewing machine, the needle is bent or dull.

2. Defective sewing needles cannot be corrected

Before installing the needle, it is necessary to check if it is bent, dull or rusty. There are other defects, for example, the absence of an eyelet or its incorrect location in relation to the groove for the thread, but this is quite rare.

Defective sewing needles, including twisted and blunt, it is better to throw it away immediately so that they don't get in the way. Never try to sharpen or straighten a sewing needle. Any defect of this type of needle cannot be corrected. Sewing needles, especially sewing machine needles, are made of extra strong steel, and a good needle is one that breaks on impact or straightening, rather than bending like a nail.

3. When installing the needle, pay attention to the shape of the bulb

Pay attention to the needle flask ( top part which is inserted into the needle bar). Quite often, seamstresses use needles with a round flask (without saw cut) for their household sewing machines. Needles with such a flask are used only for industrial machines and are sometimes found in household overlockers.

A sewing needle for household sewing machines always has a cut on the flask(for error-free installation).

Application of industrial sewing needles always leads to malfunctions, and sometimes to serious damage.

Before buying new needles, it is advisable to have a sample with you or write out from the instructions the exact markings of the needles recommended for this sewing machine or overlock. The instructions always indicate the brand of the needle, the number of needles (thickness) of the recommended sizes, depending on the thickness of the fabric and thread.

The fact is that needles can be not only different lengths, but also have a number of flask differences. The diameter of the flask may be thinner or thicker, the length of the flask itself may also differ, etc. This may affect some settings of the sewing machine and especially the overlock.

As a result, malfunctions will appear, such as skipped stitches in the line.

Although this is not very relevant, but sometimes you should pay attention to this when looking for the causes of gaps that appeared after changing the needle.

Needle numbers for household sewing machines: 65; 70; 75; 80; 90; 100; 110; 120; 130. The most common numbers are 80; 90; 100. This is the size of the needle you should always have in the kit.

5. How to check the curvature of the sewing needle

It is difficult to visually determine whether the needle is straight or bent. Use this method (see figure) to check the curvature of the needle.

A similar check may come in handy if you cannot find the cause of skipped stitches on a sewing machine or overlocker. Sometimes it happens that the nose of the shuttle or the looper of the overlock gets into the needle itself. The needle is slightly bent, but in appearance it is absolutely even. As a result, stitch skips appear in the line.

The search for the cause of the gaps that have appeared always begin with checking the needle.

The curvature of the sewing needle is checked against a dark background by rapidly scrolling. If the tip of the needle remains at one point, then it is even.

A blunt needle can be identified by swiping the thumbnail right hand along the tip of the needle. The nail will definitely find a bent place on the tip.

Never do not use rusty sewing needles. They will ruin the fabric, especially thin and delicate fabric, and trap the thread as it moves along the needle.

6. European sewing needle size system

The European sewing machine needle size system includes sizes from 60 to 120, according to the diameter of the needle. The American system is from 8 to 21.

To avoid confusion, both numbers are put on the package, for example 60/8 or 100/16. Needles 60/8 with a diameter of 0.6 mm, and 100/16 - 1 mm. The lower the number, the thinner the needle.

7. Types of sewing needles for household sewing machines

Sharp sewing needles are good for all woven fabrics, especially heavy and dense ones. They are used for finishing stitching, as their sharp end easily pierces the fabric. Sizes: from 60/8 to 120/20.

Universal needles used for sewing all kinds of fabrics. Big sizes convenient to use for finishing stitching. The slightly rounded point of the needle easily penetrates the fabric. Sizes: from 60/8 to 120/20.

Sewing needles with a rounded point used for knitwear. The rounded point of the needle passes between the loops without piercing them. Sizes: from 60/8 to 100/16.

Leather needles easily pierce the skin without tearing it or skipping stitches. It is not recommended to use them for sewing products made of synthetic suede. They are in the shape of a sharp wedge. Sizes: from 90/14 to 110/18.

double needle and for a sewing machine, it is used for decorative stitching, finishing stitching and pinning. Two needles are attached to one leg. Sizes: from 80/12 to 90/14, thickness: from 1.8 to 4.0 mm. The 75/11 twin needle for stretch fabrics has a width of 4.0 mm.

Sewing needle for denim, or a denim needle is used for sewing very dense fabrics. Its tip does not bend, as it has a rounded shape. She has a strong trunk and a small ear. Sizes: from 90/14 to 110/18.

Finishing stitch needle with large eye designed to work with thick, decorative threads. Doesn't skip stitches or fray thread. Sizes: from 80/12 to 110/18.

Needle with wings Designed for decorative stitching on a sewing machine. Spreads the threads, making a hole in crispy fabrics such as linen. It has two wings (on each side of the ear). Sizes: from 100/16 to 120/20.

Self-threading needle Convenient for those who find it difficult to thread a needle. On the needle, next to the eye, there is a slot through which the thread is threaded into the eye. The needle is used for work with fabrics of average density. Sizes: from 80/11 to 100/16.

Choosing a sewing needle

One of the main secrets of sewing, which, in fact, is not a secret at all, but one of the fundamental foundations of this industry - the quality of the result directly depends on the correct selection of the needle.

Indeed, it is the needle installed in the sewing machine that will determine the smooth operation and quality of the result. Modern needles are distinguished by the widest variety - they can have different sharpening options, eye shapes, groove sizes, etc. All these features, some of which are practically invisible to the human eye, significantly affect the formation of the line, its integrity and quality.

Experts also emphasize that whatever the parameters of the needle, it must fully comply with the type and thickness of the fabric. In addition, modern technologies used in light industry are steadily leading to the emergence of new types of fabrics that have different properties and characteristics. When working with such fabrics, it is necessary to ensure the strength and quality of thread connections, and at the same time not damage the structure of the fabric itself.

Typically, the correspondence between needle types and fabric types is indicated in the instructions for sewing equipment. However, it is still worth relying entirely on this data - real professionals are required to have the knowledge and skills of needle interchangeability, to know their features and characteristics, since it is this knowledge that will help to facilitate the work in the future.

So, for example, with special care it is worth approaching the systematization of sewing needles. The system of needles can be individual for different machines, and when ordering a needle, it is necessary to know not only the type of machine for which it is intended, but also what the bulb of the needle itself should be. For example, needles DBx1 and DPx5 - despite the fact that both are used for lockstitch machines, the flasks for these two models are different. You can see the type of needle either in the instructions, or compare it with the needles that the machine was originally equipped with. Also, some manufacturers indicate the type of needle directly on the machine body. Having bought a car, you should immediately look at and write down the type of needle, so that later you do not burden yourself with a long and tedious search.

Sewing machine needle manufacturers

Grotz Beckert- one of the oldest concerns for the production of sewing and knitting needles for light industry, founded in 1852. Today, the company claims to be a clear and unshakable leader in this area - Grotz-Beckert owns 6 factories in North America, Europe and Asia, which produce products distributed in several dozen countries around the world. The concern grew through mergers and acquisitions of third parties and now covers almost the entire range of needle products used in the garment industry. Under the Grotz-Beckert brand, needles for knitting and weaving machines, needles for sewing machines and machines for sewing shoes, punching and structure-forming needles, tufting needles that form pile loops and their modules (fillings) are produced.

The practicality and precision inherent in the German nation find their place in the production of these products in the best possible way - Grotz-Beckert needles are of unsurpassed quality and ease of use, which is why they are used by most sewing professionals around the world.

Schmetz is another renowned manufacturer of needle products from Germany, with a rich history and incredible heights in this business. The company has existed on the world market for more than 160 years and during all this time it has never let down sewing masters - Schmetz needles are widely popular due to their excellent quality and unique performance characteristics.

The manufacturer regularly updates its product catalog, so that both real and potential customers can get acquainted with new models of sewing needles and be aware of the latest trends in this area. Production is carried out taking into account the existing needs and current requests of sewing masters, so that Schmetz products meet all the highest international requirements and standards.

Altek Beissel- one of the most progressive and dynamically developing companies for the production of the widest range of sewing needles, located in India. The manufacturer is extremely sensitive to the quality of its products - Altek Beissel needles were the first among others to be produced in accordance with the ISO 9002 quality standard, and when they are created, technologies, equipment and experience of leading European companies are used. Each series of needles goes through more than a hundred different tests and tests in production, and only after their successful completion is it allowed for sale. Altek Beissel's assortment includes needles for overlock and covering stitch machines, needles for various types of natural and artificial leather, suede, needles with a reinforced base to avoid skipped stitches, titanium-coated needles and others.

TNC- Triumph Needle Corporation, located in Taiwan, specializes in the production of a wide range of sewing needles of the highest quality. Initially, the company was founded as a subsidiary of the German company Lammerz, but after a while TNC became an independent production, successfully using the invaluable experience of the German manufacturer. Even today, TNC continues to use German equipment and raw materials.

TNC has a number of proprietary developments protected by patents. In particular, the company uses various types of needle coating - ceramic, titanium, "diamond" (carbon). Thanks to a responsible and progressive approach to quality issues, TNC products are successful in more than 40 countries around the world and continue to confidently conquer the rest of the market on all continents.

Organ Needle- one of the largest Japanese factories in the world, engaged in the production of sewing needles. The products of this company are deservedly successful in many countries - Organ Needle sewing needles have been known since 1936, although it began its activity in 1920 with the production of gramophone needles. Today, Organ Needle is one of the leaders in its industry - the company regularly conducts various studies and tests of raw materials, so that the final product is of unsurpassed quality. The assortment of the manufacturer includes more than 6,500 items of products, among which household, industrial, shoe, carpet and knitting needles are especially popular.

Needle number selection depending on the material

The number indicated in the name of the needle indicates the thickness (diameter) of the needle in hundredths of a millimeter (for example, No. 80 = 0.8 mm = NM80) or fractions of an inch (10.12 dm). The larger the value of the number with which the needle is marked, the thicker it is. Individual manufacturers may specify two values ​​at once, for example 100/16 or 120/19. This means that the size of the needle is given in two units of measurement: in millimeters and in inches.
The needle number is always marked on the needle flask. The pitch for such needles is 5 (for example, 80, 85, 90), there are sizes from 60 to 120.

The step of the American system is "1", there are numbers from 8 to 21. Compliance with the European marking will be as follows:

8/60 - very light fabrics
10/70 - light fabrics
12/80 - light and medium fabrics
14/90 - medium fabrics
16/100 - heavy fabrics
18/110 - very heavy fabrics

Approximate correspondence between the diameters of the needles and the types of fabric:

• highly elastic knitted fabric, lycra fabric and other elastic materials - needles No. 65-90;
• light fabrics for shirts, blouses - needles No. 60-70;
• thin fabrics (batiste, chiffon, crepe de chine, etc.) - needles No. 80-90;
• linen, coarse calico, chemical fiber and staple fabrics, materials for tailoring suits - needles No. 80-90;
• light woolen fabrics and heavy chemical fibers, denim - needle No. 100;
• heavy woolen fabrics - needle number 110;
• coarse cloth, beaver, burlap - needle No. 120;
• heavy and extra-heavy materials (leather, tarpaulin, etc.) - for such materials, the needles should be selected individually, since, depending on the density, the marking of the needles can vary from No. 100 to No. 200.

You also need to remember about the matching needle-thread combination. In threads, the situation is reversed, the higher the number, the thinner the thread from 18 to 250.

Needle applicability

In addition to the numbers in the marking of sewing needles, you can also find letter designations that determine the scope of each particular needle, i.e. What type of fabric is it for? For example, a needle called 130/705H-M is designed for thin, dense fabrics. Explanations of letter designations are given below.

H Universal needles. They have a slightly rounded tip and can be of various sizes. On sale there are usually needles in sizes from 60 to 110. Universal needles are designed for sewing simple, not “capricious” fabrics (linen, calico, cotton, and others).

H-J Needles for thick fabrics. These needles are sharp. Needles are used when sewing thick dense material - jeans, twill, tarpaulin, etc.

H-MMicrotex needles. Microtex needles are very sharp and thin. These needles are used for precise piercing of microfiber fabrics and thin fabrics with tight weaves. For example, coated and uncoated raincoat fabrics, silk, taffeta and other similar fabrics.

H-S Needles for stretch fabrics. Such a needle has a special edge that reduces the risk of skipping stitches when the material is stretched and a slightly rounded point. The needle is used for sewing medium weight knitwear and synthetic stretch fabrics.

H-E Embroidery needles. Embroidery needles have a special notch and a slightly rounded point, and the eye hole is slightly larger so as not to damage the material or thread. In addition, the needle for embroidery has a greater strength of the metal of the needle. Needles of this type are designed for decorative stitching or embroidery with special embroidery threads. The size of the needles is from 70 to 90 numbers.

H-EM - needles for embroidery or sewing with metallic threads. They have a large polished eye and a groove to prevent delamination of metallized threads. Numbers 80 and 90. 80 needle size for fine fabrics. Number 90 for thicker heavy fabrics.

H-QQuilting needles. Quilting needles have a special bevel, a reduced eye and a rounded point so that there are no visible puncture marks and no skipped stitches on the fabric.

H-SUK Needles with a rounded point. Such a needle easily spreads the threads of the fabric and loops and, due to this, passes between the threads, while eliminating damage to the material. Particularly good for sewing thick knits, jerseys and knits

HLR Leather needles with a cutting edge. The cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees to the direction of the seam. The result is a decorative stitch, the stitches of which have a slight slope.

H-O - a needle with a blade, designed for decorative finishing of seams, making hemstitches using decorative stitches. Needles of this type have different blade widths. The blades can be either on one side of the tip, or on both. Using these needles on stitches where the needle punctures the same spot multiple times will enhance the decorative effect.

H-ZWI - double needle combines two needles united by one holder. The purpose of such a needle is decorative trim and tucks. Hemming the bottom of knitwear (a zigzag will form on the wrong side). The needles have only three sizes (No. 70,80,90) and three types (H, J, E). The distance between the needles is marked on the packaging in millimeters (1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0). The higher the number, the wider the distance between the needles. Needles 4.0 and 6.0 can only be used on a straight stitch.

H-DRI - Triple needles have only two sizes (2.5, 3.0). Working with this type of needle is similar to H-ZWI marking needles. When working on sewing machines with this type of needle, you should use stitches designed to work with a twin needle. If the stitch is not selected correctly, the needle may break and damage the machine or cause injury.

topstitch– special needles for decorative stitches. The needle has a large eye and a large groove so that the decorative thread (it is thicker than usual in order to be clearly visible on the fabric) easily passes through it. If you need to make a line with loose, decaying threads, then this needle will the best choice. Numbers from 80 to 100. For light, medium and heavy fabrics.

When using the appropriate needle, the processing of many materials is simplified. This is shown more clearly in the table:

However, it is worth emphasizing that such marking of sewing needles is not a generally accepted standard for all manufacturers without exception. Many companies that have been producing these products for decades have the technical, research and information resources for their own developments. In other words, some of the largest market players reserve the right to introduce their own author's classifications into circulation, which allows them to distinguish their products from others.

Increasingly, in stores you can buy needles marked with the name of the type of fabric, for example 130/705H JEANS - a needle for jeans type fabrics. This needle is H-J type.
A new generation of titanium-coated home sewing machine needles has arrived for better glide between layers of fabric.

Well, and more:

SCHMETZ uses the color marking of the cone of needles for household machines. UNIVERSAL [standard] - no designation, BALL POINT [ballpoint - for jersey and knitwear] - no designation, STRETCH - yellow, JEANS/DENIM - sky blue, MICROTEX [for microphase and silk] - purple, EMBROIDERY [with enlarged eyelet for embroidery ] - red, OUILTING [for quilting and patchwork] - green, SP SUPER STRETCH - orange.

ELx705 is a needle system specially designed for cover stitch machines and carpet locks. They are slightly longer than standard needles. There are regular and chrome. The latter are just designated by the letters CF (Chrome Finish). By the way, the approximate length of the needle is 38.5 mm.

So, in the name of the needle, information about the purpose of the needle and its thickness is encrypted. Needle named 130/705H-J (#90) is a household sewing machine needle suitable for thick fabrics, needle diameter 0.9mm. And the needle with the name 130/705H-E (No. 80) is an embroidery needle with a needle diameter of 0.8mm.

BUT
Openwork - Needle "JERSEY" from NM 70 to NM 90

B
Velvet - Needle "STRETCH" NM 75, NM 90 or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 90.
Baptiste - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60, NM 70
Belset (Belseta) - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 70 to NM 90
Boucle - NEEDLE "JERSEY"" from NM 70 to NM 90
Coarse calico - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 80 to NM 100

AT
Velor - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 100
WING (WING)-needle - NEEDLE FOR SHITTING NM 100, NM 120
Viscose - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70, NM 80
Veil - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 80
Highly elastic knitwear (Lycra, silk jersey) - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 100
Embroidery - EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90, for embroidery without sewing foot- NEEDLE WITH SPRING NM 80
Knitted and knitwear - NEEDLE "JERSEY" "from 70 to NM 90; for elastic material - NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 65, NM 75, NM90
Knitted material - NEEDLE "JERSEY"" from Th 70 to NM 100

G
Gabardine - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 100
Gas - NEEDLE "JERSEY"" NM 70, NM 80
Curtains - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90
Coarse knitted and knitwear - NEEDLE "JERSEY" "NM 80, NM 90

D
/Decorative threads - EMBROIDERY NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90 or "METALLIC" NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90
Decorative stitches double - DOUBLE NEEDLE (special needles available for different applications) from NM 65 to NM 100, NE from 1.6mm to 8.0mm
Multicolour decorative stitches - DOUBLE EYE NEEDLE NM 80; - DOUBLE NEEDLE (special needles available for different applications) from NM 65 to NM 100, NE from 1.6mm to 8.0mm; - TRIPLE NEEDLE NM 80, NE 2.5mm or 3.0mm
Triple decorative stitches - TRIPLE NEEDLE NM 80, NE 2.5mm or 3.0mm
Decorative seams - NEEDLE FOR HEATING NM 100, NM 120; - NEEDLE WITH TWO EYES NM 80; - DOUBLE NEEDLE (special needles are available for different applications) from NM 65 to NM 100, NE from 1.6mm to 8.0mm; - TRIPLE NEEDLE NM 80, NE 2.5mm or 3.0mm
Denim - NEEDLE "JEANS" from NM 70 to 110; for accentuated quilting - DOUBLE NEEDLE "JEANS" NM 100
Jersey - NEEDLE "JERSEY" NM 60 to NM 80 for stretch fabric - NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 65, NM 75
Denim - NEEDLE "JEANS" from NM 70 to NM 110; for accentuated quilting - DOUBLE NEEDLE "JEANS" NM 100

AND
Jacquard - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80 to NM 100
Georgette (also crepe - georgette) - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or "MICROTEX" NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 80

And
Imitation fur - NEEDLE "JERSEY"" or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 100
Artificial leather - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" or NEEDLE "LEDER" from NM 70 to NM 100
Woven faux fur - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 100 or "JERSEY" NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 90

To
Edges - DOUBLE NEEDLE (special needle available for different applications) from NM 60 to NM 100, NE from 1.6 to 4.0mm; - for elastic materials - DOUBLE NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 65 or NM 75, NE 2.5 mm or 4.0 mm
Quilting - QUILTING NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90
Oilcloth, waxed fabric - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 80 to NM 100
Cord - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 80 to NM 100
Corset materials - NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 75, NM 90 or NEEDLE "JERSEY"" from NM 70 to NM 90
Edge seams - see Overlock - work
Crepe - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or "MICROTEX" NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 80
Crepe de chine - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or "MICROTEX" NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 80
Crinkle, crash (Crinkle, Crash) - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 60 to NM 80
Lace - the needle is selected depending on the characteristics of the material, the needle number is from NM 70 to NM 90
Cupro (Cupro) - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 60 to NM 80

L
Lavable - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 90
Lycra - NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 65, NM 75, NM 90 or NEEDLE "JERSEY" "from NM 70 to NM 90
Lame (Lame) - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 60 to NM 90
Loden - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 80 to NM 120
Patchwork - QUILTING NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90

M
Coated materials - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 70 to NM 110
Terry cloth - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 90
Hemstitches - HEITTING NEEDLE NM 100, NM 120 or DOUBLE HEITTING NEEDLE NM 100
Metallic threads for sewing and embroidery - NEEDLE "METALLIC" NM 80, NM 90
Microfiber fabrics - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 60 to NM 90

H
Nylon - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or "MICROTEX" NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 90
Needle number (NM) - corresponds to the thickness of the needle (diameter of its core) in hundredths of a millimeter (for example: the NM 80 needle has a thickness of 0.8 mm)

O
Hemming and hemming - (T-shirts, T-shirts, etc.) - DOUBLE NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 65 or NM 75, NE 2.5 mm or 4.0 mm
Overlock work - there are different systems of needles, follow the instructions of the sewing machine manufacturers.
Organdy (Organdy) - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or NEEDLE "MICROTEX" NM 60, NM 70
Laying off - MULTI-PURPOSE NEEDLE or "MICROTEX" NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 90 or NEEDLE FOR GAINING from NM 80 to NM 100

P
Pallet (Paillette) - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 70 to NM 90 or NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 75, NM 90
Coat materials - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 90 to NM 120
Panne velvet - STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75 or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80
Canvas, tarpaulin - NEEDLE "JEANS" from NM 90 to NM 110
Brocade - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or "MICROTEX" NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 90
Films (plastic films, artificial leather, oilcloth) - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 60 to NM 100
Semi-linen fabric - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80
Poplin - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 60 to NM 80
Jersey bed linen - NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 75, NM 90
Woven bed linen - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 100

R
Work clothes - NEEDLE "JEANS" NM 100, NM 110
Distance in mm between the tips of a double or triple needle (NE) - depending on the purpose of the needle and its system from NE 1.6 mm to NE 8.0 mm
Reversible fabric - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or "JERSEY" NEEDLE NM 70 to NM 100
Shirts - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 70, NM 80
Stretch Shirts - STRETCH NEEDLE NM 75

FROM
Twill - NEEDLE "JEANS" from NM 70 to NM 110
Stitch - QUILTING NEEDLE NM 75, NM 90
Table linen - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60 to NM 100

T
Taffeta - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 60, NM 70
Thermovelor (fleece) - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 90 or NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 75, NM 90
Thick leather, hard artificial leather - NEEDLE "LEDER" from NM 100 to NM 120
Fine leather - NEEDLE "LEDER" or UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 90
Slim jersey - NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 65, NM 75
Etched velvet - NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 65, NM 75, NM 90
Tulle - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or NEEDLE "JERSEY"" NM 70, NM 80

F
Felt - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 80 to NM 100
Fleece - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE from NM 70 to NM 90 or NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 75, NM 90

X
Cotton knitted material - NEEDLE "JERSEY"" from NM 70 to NM 90 or NEEDLE "STRETCH" NM 75, NM 90

W
Chambray - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE NM 80, NM 90
Shanzhan (Changeant) - UNIVERSAL NEEDLE or NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from 60 to NM 80
Silk - NEEDLE "MICROTEX" from NM 60 to NM 90

Causes of broken sewing machine needle

The cause of needle breakage may be too High thread tension especially if the thread is very strong.

The thread tension should be such that, with the foot lowered, the thread can be pulled out with a little effort by hand. True, you first need to pull the thread from the eye of the needle. This is a rough orientation, but at first the thread tension is adjusted by hand, and then it is corrected in the line.

Decrease the upper thread tension in steps until both threads are properly interlaced exactly in the middle of the fabric so that the stitch "knot" is not visible from above or below.

Do not overtighten the upper thread. You need to pull it so much that the upper thread is not visible when the connected parts are stretched, and with a slight stretch of the seam, the thread in the line does not burst.

The strength of the connection of parts, first of all, does not depend on the tension, but on the uniform weave of the threads and the length of the stitch.

1. The sewing needle is not fully inserted into the needle bar

sewing the needle is not fully inserted into the needle bar, and it seemed to have become longer relative to its normal level. In this case, the needle hits the hook and the needle breaks.

Make it a rule to carefully check the needle setting when replacing it, so that the needle is fully seated in the needle bar and securely screwed in.

2. Presser foot not attached

Most needle breakage occurs when it hits parts of the machine that it passes by. The first such detail is the foot.
The needle may hit the presser foot when the presser foot swings, turns, or is shifted to the side. In the first case, it is necessary to strengthen the foot with a screw, in the rest, remove the front board, loosen the screw in the foot shank holder and turn the foot so that the needle passes through the center of the eye of the foot and the center of the eye of the needle plate; having installed the foot correctly, it is necessary to fasten the holder screw well.

3. For sewing thick, coarse fabrics, a fine needle is supplied

Breakage of the needle on the fabric can occur when inaccurate stitching of thickened places (for example, a seam).
A very common mistake, which is often caused by laziness to replace the needle with a needle of a different number (thicker or thinner) and use needles with different blade shapes.

Use special sewing machine needles for sewing denim, leather, and knit fabrics. They have a special spout shape and penetrate the fabric much more easily without destroying the fabric and facilitating the process of sewing and looping. In combination with strong and elastic threads, the machine will work softer, and the stitches will be even and beautiful.

When you have to sew thick transverse seams, you need to slow down the rotation of the flywheel, slightly raise the foot with the lever.

4. Inept sewing. The seamstress pulls the fabric with her hand

This will bend the needle and damage the hook, needle plate and presser foot. You can not pull the fabric with your hand towards you, and remove the fabric under the foot only back, away from you. If the fabric does not feed well, increase the presser foot pressure with the adjusting screw or presser foot pressure switch. See instructions on how to adjust presser foot pressure for your sewing machine.

The fabric will move better if you slightly raise the teeth of the rack. Most sewing machines have a special switch for this.

5. Presser foot surface worn or loose

Foot worn or loose, and as a result, it "dangles" in the place of its attachment. And when passing through places with a thickening, the foot shifts and the needle gets into it.

The sewing machine experiences a lot of vibration during operation and the foot attachment should be well tightened, preferably with a screwdriver, so that the screw of its attachment does not loosen during operation.

6. The needle is set with a long groove in the opposite direction

The needle is set with a long groove in the wrong direction (opposite) and touches the shuttle nose, which can lead, including to the breakage of the shuttle.

Incorrect needle setting is the most common cause of sewing machine failure. and appeal to the master. It is advisable to remember well how the needle is installed on your machine, or even draw this position on a small piece of paper and stick it with tape on the body of the machine.

If you find it difficult to understand how to install the needle, remove the needle plate and see how the nose of the hook passes near the needle. It should go almost flush with the groove on the needle, and not next to the long groove for the thread. When installing the needle, this groove can be easily felt with a finger or fingernail. But the thread is inserted precisely from the side of this groove.
I don’t know about you, but my best eye is a magnifying glass, I highly recommend you use it when changing the needle.

7. A different type of needle is used, industrial design

The same thing happens when installing a needle of a different type, for example, an industrial design. Often inexperienced seamstresses install such sewing needles on household machines and overlocks. And after calling the master, the entire repair of the machine comes down to replacing the needle.

As already mentioned, the bulb of a household sewing needle should have a cut, and not be round.

Not only is an industrial needle not designed for household sewing machines, but it can also damage some parts. Therefore, if you have them, give them better to professionals in the studio, they will be very happy.

8. Bent needle installed

A bent needle is installed or it is bent during operation. This happens, as a rule, when sewing thick fabrics with a thin needle. When sewing thick fabrics and materials, it is better to play it safe and put the needle even a number thicker than necessary.

In addition, it should be remembered that the needle can be bent by removing fabrics from under the presser foot, if (in the absence of an upper thread tension release) the thread is not first pulled out of the tension regulator.

By the way, "real" needles do not bend, but break into small pieces on impact. Be careful, because no one has yet seen where these pieces fly.

8. The needle bar has moved because it is loose

Needle bar attachment should be checked occasionally, especially on our "native" machines. Remove or open the front cover and try tightening the needle bar fixing screw.
If the screw tightens, then the fastening is loose. If you find it difficult to find this screw yourself, look in the instructions for your sewing machine for the location of the screw that secures the needle bar of your machine and check that it is securely tightened.

9. Other causes of needle breakage

The flywheel of the sewing machine has turned in the opposite direction.. This often happens with machines with manual and foot drive and with beginners to learn to sew.
We also recommend for beginners thread carefully because incorrect threading not only causes stitching defects, but sometimes even breakage of the needle.

If a Needle plate moves out of place while sewing, it is necessary to tighten the screws of its fastening more tightly.

If a bobbin case not inserted correctly, not until it clicks, i.e. it is not locked on the center pin and turned in the shuttle set, it should be removed and then inserted correctly (until it clicks).

How to change the needle on a sewing machine

A step-by-step video on how to change the needle in a sewing machine: how to remove the old needle and put in a new one.

In conclusion, it is worth noting once again that in sewing, as well as in any other serious business, there are no trifles. Underestimating the importance and functional purpose of such a component as an ordinary sewing needle, no matter how tiny and insignificant it may seem, you can pay for this with a significant marriage of the finished product.

To avoid unpleasant consequences, it is necessary to be extremely attentive both to the choice of the needle itself, and to the conditions and duration of its operation. Only such a responsible attitude to business will allow you to fully master exclusively professional skills, as well as help you save time and improve the quality of work in the future.

It's no secret that different fabrics require different needles. If you choose the wrong needle, it can either break quickly or ruin expensive fabric. In this guide, we will figure out how to choose the right needle and not spoil anything.

Needle marking

Choosing the right needle should start with marking. Consider the markings on the package with needles: as a rule, the manufacturer is indicated at the top, below is the standard of the needle, next to the standard is the type, even lower is the number.

In household sewing machines, needles of the 130/705 standard are mainly installed. The type of needle is indicated in capital letters (or words), Number - in numbers from 60 to 110.
The choice of needle number and type mainly depends on the density and type of material to be sewn.
First, let's figure out which type of needle to prefer.

Selecting the type of needle

As mentioned above, the type of needle is recognized by the letter code in its name. For example, a needle called 130/705 H-LL is designed for sewing leather. Let's take a look at the types:

Type H

Needles are universal. The tip of the needle is slightly rounded. Used for sewing from simple, picky fabrics. The needle itself looks like this:

Type H-J (jeans)

Needles designed for thick fabrics. The point of the needle is sharpened to make it easier to penetrate the fabric. They are used for sewing products made of dense, hard material (jeans, twill, tarpaulin, etc.) Needle photo:

Type H-M (microtex)

Thin and very sharp needles that are used to delicately pierce microfiber, silk, taffeta and other thin, densely woven fabrics. Picture of a microtex needle:

Type H-S (stretch)

Stretch needles. The tip is rounded. Thanks to the special edge in the needle, the risk of skipped stitches is reduced. Designed for sewing from medium-density knitwear and elastic fabrics. Photo of the tip of the needle for elastic fabrics:

Type H-SUK (jersey)

Also needles for elastic fabrics. The tip is rounded, spherical. Such a needle, pushing apart (and not piercing) the threads of the fabric, passes between them, which prevents damage to the material. Used for sewing thick jersey, jersey and knitted fabrics.

It is not recommended to sew ordinary fabrics with knitting needles - the load on the machine increases. Photo of a needle with a rounded tip:

Type 130/705H-L, H-LR and H-LL (leder leather)

Skin needles. They have a special trihedral sharpening, which facilitates cutting through the skin. However, when sewing regular fabrics, these needles will simply cut through the material and ruin the fabric. This is how it looks like:

Type H-E (embroidery)

Needles for decorative embroidery. They have a special notch and a rounded tip. The eyelet opening is enlarged so as not to damage the fabric or special embroidery thread.

Type H-Q (quilting)

Quilting needles. They have a rounded point, a special bevel and a small eye to avoid puncture marks and skipped stitches.

Some manufacturers indicate in the marking of needles only the universal name: 130/705H, and below indicate what type of fabric is sewn with these needles. Example: 130/705H Microtex needles for thin, densely woven fabrics (equivalent to type 130/705H-M).

Selecting the number, or size, of the needle

As already mentioned at the beginning, the number indicated in the name of the needle indicates the thickness (diameter) of the needle in hundredths of a millimeter (for example, No. 80 = 0.8 mm). We select the thickness of the needle depending on the type and density of the fabric. The table below will help you make your choice.

Material		Needle size
Textile	Light (material for shirts, blouses)	60-70
	Medium (suit material)	80-90
	Heavy (coat material)	100-110
jean fabric	Light	70-90
	Medium	100-110
densely woven fabrics	Light (microphase, silk, taffeta)	60-80
	Medium (twill, canvas)	100-110
Knitwear	Thin	60
	Average	70-80
	Rude	80-90
Elastic materials For example, high-elastic knitted fabric or fabric with lycra	Thin	65-70
	Medium	80-90

And finally: do not forget that needles have a limited service life. Replace them regularly with new ones, ideally a new needle for each product.