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  • What does an overlocker look like on a sewing machine. The main differences between a sewing machine and an overlocker

    What does an overlocker look like on a sewing machine.  The main differences between a sewing machine and an overlocker

    Machine stitch- the main characteristic of the line according to the method of its connection. A line is a consecutive series of repeating uniform stitches. A stitch is one element of the structure obtained by the thread method between two punctures of the material with a needle by interweaving one or more threads.

    We divide the lines into groups:

    • workers
    • knitted and overlock
    • decorative
    • for patchwork and quilting

    The most versatile machine stitch of all, it can perform any sewing operation, except for hemming. This connecting stitch allows you to connect the details of the product from all types of fabrics. As well as picking up and fitting details.

    fabric assembly

    Helpful Hint: The heavier the fabric (e.g. drape), the longer the stitch length.

    Fabric assembly. To assemble, you need to set the stitch length to the longest and loosen the tension a little. upper thread. We lay machine lines on both sides of the intended seam line, without fixing their ends. Holding the lower threads, we shift the fabric along them, forming gatherings. Fasten the ends of the threads with a knot and wind them on a pin, distribute the assemblies evenly, without wrinkles.

    Zigzag stitches


    Zigzag single prick, with such a machine line, you can adjust not only the length of the stitch, but also the width of the line itself. The shorter the stitch length, the denser the zigzag stitch will be. It can be used to process slices. A narrow zigzag machine stitch can be used for seaming sections of stretch and knitted fabrics.

    Application- this is a pattern made of fabric or other materials, which is fixed on the basis of a machine line. The classic way is to attach the appliqué with a machine zigzag stitch. You need to perform a zigzag stitch with a loose upper thread.

    It is most often used for adjusting elastic bands and fastening its ends.

    Can also be used for trimming loose fabrics, sewing on lace, knitwear, darning, reinforcing edges, short curly stitches. For decorative trim, sofa cushions, tablecloths, you can sew in a colored cord. A special presser foot is required for this sewing operation.

    It is used for hemming the bottom of the product using a special foot.

    To obtain a seam "shell".

    The shell stitch is used for trimming edges when sewing thin, stretchy fabrics. The largest seam should run along the edge of the fabric to create a shell effect. For this type of seam, you will need to: set a tighter thread tension than normal, place the fabric under the foot so that the straight seam goes along the longitudinal, and the zigzag stitches along the edge, sew at low speed.

    It is used for hemming the bottom of elastic fabrics and knitted fabrics using a special foot.

    Knit stitches

    Knitwear has become more and more popular, not only is it not inferior in its characteristics, but sometimes it even wins in the sketches of new models. This soft "movable fabric" is able to change size and shape, and its ease of moisture and air penetration will allow your skin to breathe.

    Knitwear(French tricotage, from tricoter - to knit) - a knitted fabric obtained from one or many threads by forming loops and interweaving them on a knitting machine. Unlike other textiles, knitwear has stretch in all directions due to the ability of the loops to change shape and size. The loose looped structure gives the jersey softness and crease resistance.

    Today in stores you can see a wide variety of knitted fabrics, but how to sew it at home, what stitches to use - remains a big question. I propose to consider a separate group of lines, which have long been given the name "knitted" among the people. I classified all stretch stitches as knit stitches, but many of them can also be used as decorative stitches.

    Not only flexible, but also very durable. Use for seams that are subjected to heavy stress, bearing in mind that it is very difficult to open it.

    Helpful Hint: Use a three-row stretch stitch in the middle seam of your pants.

    3-row zigzag stretch stitch or triple reinforced zigzag - is characterized by increased strength.

    honeycomb stitch- elastic decorative stitch for ornamental edging on elastic materials, used for decorative finishing.

    When used on ordinary (non-knitted) fabrics, in such sewing operations as the joint of two fabrics and hemming the bottom of the product.

    This line is stretchable. It is good to use it for finishing purposes, for connecting material or decorative effects in patchwork.

    Decorative elastic stitch- used not only for butt-stitching, but also for layer-on-layer stitching, such as leather or decorative trim.

    Overlock stitches

    Overlock is a technical device for trimming and edging parts of garments, which is an addition to sewing machine. If sewing is your favorite hobby, you should consider acquiring it. Is it possible to process the sections of a garment from shedding on a simple sewing machine? - Yes!

    Useful advice. When sewing an overlock stitch, use the special foot, it will allow you to stitch exactly along the edge.

    It is used for processing the edge of the product, for the simultaneous grinding and processing of the edge on elastic materials. When applying this stitch, a visual resemblance to overlock strings is created.

    Closed overlock seam. It is used for processing fabrics such as jersey and for overcasting bulk materials.

    With a reinforced edge - obtaining elastic and overcast seams on knitted parts, stitching parts. The left edge of the product is processed.

    The range of decorative stitches for mechanical machines is limited. A computer-controlled machine can perform a variety of decorative stitches - these are various ornaments, curly stitches, scalloped hems, stitches made with satin flooring, elements of the simplest embroidery - cross stitches, hemstitches, openwork stitches and so on. Complex models of cars have several alphabets of different fonts stored in memory.

    Usually any stitch can be modified by changing the length and width of the stitch. Complex computer machines have the function of mirror reflection of the line, the expansion of "scalloped" lines.

    Some computerized machines have a "memory" feature that can store a combination of letters (such as names) or a sequence of elements to embroider them in the desired order.

    (crescents, squares, rhombuses, etc.) - these lines are also decorative. Used for processing tablecloths, napkins.

    Crescent, for decorative finishing and edge processing with subsequent cutting along the edge.

    Quilting and patchwork

    Today, the world has adopted a definition of what is considered a product in the technique of patchwork: this is a three-layer product consisting of a patchwork top, filler and inside, which are interconnected by a stitch. The top of such a product can be made in the technique of patchwork and also called the English word "patchwork", appliqués, or be a whole piece of fabric on which a decorative stitch is made - "quilting".

    For the finished product, there is another term - "quilt". If earlier the stitch served to fasten the layers and fix the filler, today it is a separate decorative technique. Loose stitching on a sewing machine creates a new surface structure on a textile.

    The capabilities of modern sewing machines allow you to diversify stitching techniques and the appearance of products, to give free rein to the imagination of the craftswoman.

    Useful advice. Before sewing any stitch, test it on a swatch with the same number of layers of fabric and lining as the original stitch.

    You can talk about the lines for a long time. Each of us can come up with a new use for them. For a person with talent and love for work, there are no barriers. Keep it up and you will succeed!

    For those who are interested in the question, what is the difference between an overlock and a modern sewing machine, first of all, it is worthwhile to understand that these are devices aimed at performing different functions. household models machines perform a two-thread stitch and are intended primarily for connecting parts. Overcasting device forms a multi-thread (from 3, 4, 5) seam. The combined models that are available on the market today cannot structurally perform the operations of these two devices at the same time.

    Household models of sewing machines are not capable of overcasting fabrics, or rather, they do it differently than the equipment specially designed for these tasks. Two-thread machines perform only an imitation of an overcast seam. But on sale there are still multifunctional sewing machines with overlock. When the first devices capable of performing a zigzag stitch appeared, they were used just to process the cut edges of the fabric. Subsequently, they began to produce specially designed for these purposes overlock paws.


    Overlock foot

    Today, you can install such a nozzle on most models of sewing machines. They are either bundled with the device or purchased separately by the user. In addition, advanced models are able to perform high-quality overcasting stitches. It is these devices that are considered combined models of two devices. But in fact, all the functions of a conventional overlock are beyond their power.

    The main differences between an overlocker and a sewing machine

    Shuttle vehicles use two threads: the top one is threaded from the main spool, and the bottom one is wound on the bobbin. The stitches are formed by binding, thanks to the shuttle. Using a special overlock foot and the “zigzag” program, it is quite possible to process the finished one (i.e. the cut edge) on a conventional machine quite well. The design feature of such a nozzle allows you to sew stitches exactly along the edge of the cut piece of fabric. But in terms of quality, such a seam will still be inferior to processing on overlock equipment.

    Due to the specifics of the execution, a two-thread seam may not withstand strong tension.

    In overlock it is used immediately multiple strands. Today, 4-thread models are quite popular. Also, such devices can be 2 (today they are practically not used), 3 and even 5-thread. The lower threads are not threaded into the bobbin, but directly into the looper. This is a metal hook that catches the needle thread in the process of forming a chain stitch.


    The thread consumption in an overlocker is much higher than in a sewing machine. This is due not only to the involvement of several coils at once. The overlock stitch itself on such a device is elastic, strong and extensible by increasing the length of each stitch. Therefore, for overlock equipment, it is recommended to use not ordinary thread spools, but large thread bobbins. Modern overcasting equipment has and rack with teeth- in the process of work, it stretches the fabric a little. This option is especially useful when working with knitted material.

    Another difference between an overlock and a conventional sewing machine is the stitching function. This means that when overcasting, it cuts off the edge of the fabric.


    What overlock to buy

    Multi-thread overlocks are much more practical. Today, four-thread models are very popular. They have two pairs of looper and needles. If necessary, such devices are transformed into three-thread (if one needle is turned off) or two-thread, if a special plate (converter) is installed on the looper.

    As a result, these models have several edging programs. When one pair is turned off: needle and looper, it becomes possible to sew a two-thread narrow overcasting stitch, which is used for processing thin and medium-density fabrics.


    Overlock Brother

    Overlock stitches on a sewing machine

    To overcast the edge of the fabric, it is not always necessary to purchase additional expensive equipment. For many users who do not sew on a professional basis, there is no need to buy such devices. Sometimes special modes for overcasting on a standard sewing machine are quite enough.


    Overlock stitches

    Modern models provide various types of edge processing modes. Different types of fabric (eg cotton, wool, etc.) can have their own program. The instructions will help you choose the right stitch mode. Sometimes the manufacturer displays a description of the seams directly on the front panel of the device case. Additional overlock stitches (in parallel with the regular zigzag) increase the quality of the seam.

    When buying a sewing machine, you should pay attention to the presence of overcast lines in the list of programs performed by the device, especially if the purchase of an overlock is not expected.

    Overlock and sewing machine differ from each other in the type of stitches, the processing of the edges of the fabric, the thread consumption. In turn, modern models have an imitation of overcast seams. And when using additional paws, the seam processing on the machine will be as comfortable as possible. But for professional overcasting and certain types of fabrics, special overlock equipment is required.

    Previously, beautifully finished seams could only be made on garment factory or in a studio. At home, seamstresses could only sheathe the edges with a zigzag or hem of the fabric. Now, thanks to the latest technology, you can buy an overlocker for the home. If the sewing machine can only make a lock stitch, then the overlock with the help of loopers and needles forms various chain stitches. But to work with it, you need some skill and a lot of spools of thread.

    In the case when a person is not professionally engaged in sewing, it makes no sense to buy an overlocker. It is enough to purchase an overlock foot. It is suitable for many kinds of machines, both domestic and imported. When buying an overlock, you will need to pay a tidy sum, even more than for a typewriter. When buying a foot for overcasting, the costs will be minimal. Learning how to use this device is quite simple. What does the overlock foot look like?

    What is the best machine to buy?

    If you decide to purchase a sewing machine, and buying an overlock is not included in your plans, then be sure to stop your choice on a device with an overlock foot. It is also called an overlock machine. There is at least one sewing foot included in the kit. The higher the category of the sewing machine, the more accessories it comes with.

    But if you do not have enough money for a cool car, then do not be discouraged. Then you can always buy other paws. It's not a problem. In specialized stores of sewing equipment or on the Internet, you can order any foot you need. If the purchased device already has devices for several overcasting lines, then in the near future you will easily do without an overlock.

    How does the overlock foot work?

    The special foot has a core and a springy plate. The plate presses the edge of the cut fabric against the foot and allows you to overcast it right along the edge. The pin holds the thread, which slips off the pin with each step of the stitch, without tightening the fabric.

    With the help of the presser foot, the overlock seam will be beautiful and neat. The stitches will be sewn along the edge of the fabric. By increasing or decreasing the upper thread tension, the threads will be intertwined closer to the edge of the cut fabric. Each seamstress, by trial and error, will be able to set the tension in the desired position, especially with a foot with a rod, this is not difficult to do. The seam will look like a real overlock. But in order for it to serve for a long time, you must always duplicate it, making just a straight line next to it.

    Performing a basting

    Before starting overcasting operations with the help of an overlock foot, you need to sew the details of the future product and carefully trim the remaining seam allowance. Scissors need to cut the desired width and protruding threads. After that, install the presser foot on the machine. In modern units, it is no longer necessary to unscrew the screw holding it. To do this, just lower the lever located at the back. We take out the foot that is not needed at the moment and insert the overlock.

    You should hear a click, and then raise the presser foot lever up. When set correctly, the sole of the foot will also rise up. After installing the foot, you need to put material under it, while the limiter will control the specified direction of fabric movement. Then the overcast line is sewn.

    1. Overlock stitch, suitable for heavy fabrics or areas of the product where seam reinforcement is needed and most similar to overlock, requires several stitches. In this case, the stitched fabric must be fed back and forth.

    2. When sewing, the fabric does not need to be pulled forward, it must move automatically, otherwise unwanted wrinkles will occur.

    3. If you are working with thin cloth, for example, chiffon, then the material can be folded into a roll. After processing, a wavy sloppy edge will remain. To avoid this, you need to wipe the edges of the material with a starch solution, then iron it through any cotton fabric. After that, calmly sew and overcast the edges, they will hold their shape and not curl. Without any effort, the seam will lie flat.


    4. For delicate fabrics, it is recommended to use threads used for decorative embroidery. For colored materials, you can take not only threads of the same color, but also suitable in tone.

    How to choose a foot for overcasting fabrics?

    Earlier on sewing machines a zigzag stitch was used for overcasting, but when the fabric was pulled, it could burst in several places. When sewing on an overlock, the product stretches easily in all directions, and the seams do not diverge. The presence of an overlock foot in modern machines contributes to the similarity of the seam to a two-thread overlock. True, he will not be able to withstand strong tension.


    Since overlocker feet come in a variety of shapes, it’s best to have any kind of foot from your machine when buying. Then it will be possible to compare the fastenings and measure the height of the legs. You can also select these elements based on the name of the manufacturer of the machine.

    A convenient option would be to purchase a universal overlock foot. It becomes on most types of sewing units, and also makes a decorative finish on the edges of the product. At the same time, it performs reciprocating movements. The line is dense and beautiful.

    Various types of paws

    When buying a machine, it comes with several paws. These are the basic devices necessary to perform the simplest operations. For example, a foot for sewing on a snake, universal, making a zigzag stitch (one of the most popular feet among seamstresses), semi-automatic, for making buttonholes. In a set of expensive cars, there are an order of magnitude more of them, from 10 to 15 pieces.

    In addition to the standard feet that are sold with the sewing machine, you can buy separately a whole set of 32 pieces. Most of them are metal, but there are also combined ones, consisting of plastic and metal, as well as Teflon. Description of some products from the set of feet for sewing machines are presented below:


    • for curly lines. Thanks to her, beads are sewn, it turns out neatly and evenly;
    • for hemming fabric (2 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm);
    • for sewing snakes (universal);
    • for the formation of elongated loops on the product;
    • for sewing on buttons, but only flat ones;
    • for sewing one or more ropes;
    • making assemblies on matter, attaching a ribbon with such an effect;
    • for curly embroidery;
    • for basting parts (makes a curly stitch);
    • for a line of an edging;
    • for an invisible snake;
    • for hiding seams in bulky fabrics;
    • roller. It is used in the processing of leather and knitwear. Special round rollers help the foot move freely through the material;
    • teflon glides easily over leather, suede, nubuck, velvet;
    • for machine artistic embroidery of drawings;
    • for overcasting fabric, only with a brush that instantly cleans the dust generated during the overcasting process.

    Edge trimming device

    There is one more foot for the machine, which you must have in the kit, namely, the overlock foot with a knife. When overcasting the edge of the fabric, the side knife neatly cuts off the excess fabric. The process takes place simultaneously, while the tissue does not shrink. The structure of this element includes a wide sole, a hook and 2 knives. The hook is responsible for the consistency of the needle and the upper knife. The knife below is rigidly fixed on the sole of the foot.


    Before starting work, you need to prepare the material for overcasting. To do this, parts of the product must be fastened with pins across the drawn line of the future overlock seam. Use the utility foot to sew a straight stitch. After that, the part changes to another, overlock with a knife. To properly install it, you need to put the hook on the needle holder. Only then will the presser foot and needle holder work in sync. If the presser foot is set incorrectly, the fabric will not be cut.

    Principle of operation

    Unlike the usual sewing foot, which, when overcasting the edge with a zigzag, leaves hooks, compression and uneven stitching, the overlock foot does not tangle the threads and does not jam the material. This happens due to the presence in the middle of the slot for the needle of the tooth, on which, when overcasting, several stitches in a row lie down. The seam is formed around it and the edge of the material. Thus, the matter is not pulled together, and the line is neat.

    Pros and cons of this foot

    Buying an overlock foot, any craftswoman can save a lot. A real overlocker is expensive, and dealing with its connection and a huge variety of seams is also not easy. Having two devices instead of one sewing machine at once, it will be necessary to allocate a lot of work surface for this technique. In preparation for work, a lot of time is spent on threading threads. When using the presser foot, you do not need to do all this.

    The disadvantages of working with a foot can be called the fact that over time the seam will begin to crumble, in contrast to the overlock processed. Yes, and you need to cut the edge yourself or change the nozzle on the foot with a knife. The seam is designed for a calm sock, as it is not very strong and can crack when stretched.

    So decide for yourself what is more profitable for you to purchase and use in future work.

    A sewing machine and an overlocker are two completely different machines. A sewing machine for domestic purposes, as a rule, performs a two-thread lock stitch. Overlock forms a 3-, 4-, 5-thread overcasting seam based on a chain stitch. Both of these stitches cannot be combined in the same machine. Where, then, did the concept of "overlock sewing machine" come from? The fact is that the first models of zigzag sewing machines were considered to be machines that could overcast, since the zigzag stitch was often used to process the cut edges of the fabric.
    Over time, engineers have come up with special overlock feet that allow you to imitate an overlock stitch. In addition, the machines have additional lines that improve the quality of the overcast stitch. Thus, the concept of an overlock sewing machine has become a reality, and in any store you can now buy a machine that can imitate an overlock overlock stitch.
    How to use an overlock foot, what they are and what you need to pay attention to when choosing a machine with an overlock function.

    1. What is the difference between the overlock stitch of a sewing machine

    This photo clearly shows how the overlock stitch of a sewing machine differs from the overlock stitch of an overlock. The photo (1) shows the stitching of a sewing machine with an overlock, the photo (2) shows the cut edge of the fabric processed with an overlock.

    For overcasting fabric on a sewing machine, a regular zigzag lockstitch stitch is used. Its main difference is that the lower and upper threads have sufficient tension in the stitch, and if this seam is stretched, the threads will burst, and in several places at once. With the help of special feet and a certain type of zigzag stitch, the overlock stitch will almost completely imitate a two-thread overlock stitch, but it will not become stronger from this. This is the main reason why you have to buy an overlocker. Since the overlock seam not only beautifully "packs" the edges of the fabric, but can also withstand heavy tensile loads. You can safely try to stretch the side seam of your T-shirt (within reasonable limits), the threads will stretch along with the fabric, but will not burst.

    Any sewing machine that performs a zigzag stitch can "overcast" fabrics, even a Seagull sewing machine, using a regular zigzag foot. But, only with the help of a special foot, the overlock seam will turn out to be even and neat, the stitches will be laid exactly along the edge of the cut piece of fabric. This is possible due to the fact that there is a rod inside such a foot, and a spring plate is fixed on the edge.
    Tension top and bottom thread lockstitch sewing machines are much higher than overlock sewing machines. Therefore, when overcasting thin fabrics, the cut edge of the fabric in the stitch will be pulled together, compressed. You can, of course, loosen the tension of the upper thread, which, by the way, must be done in any case, but to a certain extent. But using a foot with a rod, the thread will be held by this rod when forming a stitch and in this form, step by step, “move out” from it without tightening the fabric.
    This will allow you to both "re-arrange" the look of the overlock stitch (by pulling the upper thread) and ensure that the weave of the threads runs along the edge of the fabric. Such a stitch will completely imitate an overlock, but it will definitely need to be duplicated with a straight line laid next to it.

    As for the plate of the overlock foot, it is only needed to press the cut edge of the fabric against it. Then the seam during overcasting will be laid exactly along the edge of the fabric.

    Overlock feet for a sewing machine may be different in shape, but the principle of forming an overlock stitch is the same for them.
    If your machine does not have such a presser foot, make sure that the presser foot attachment is suitable for your machine when purchasing. All sewing machine manufacturers produce additional presser feet and accessories, so it is better to buy a foot from the same company as your machine.
    You can also buy a universal foot (for all machines), in most cases it will work, but there are exceptions. Be sure to bring any foot from your sewing machine set with you to compare the attachment and foot height.

    4. Overlock sewing machine stitches

    A sewing machine can overcast fabric not only with a special foot. Many models of machines have special types of stitches designed to make just such seams.
    There are a lot of varieties of such lines and they are used depending on the type of fabric. For example, for overcasting knitted fabrics, woolen, cotton, etc.
    The instructions for the sewing machine usually indicate in detail their purpose, including which foot to use. Sometimes even the display on the front panel displays the number of the presser foot that needs to be set for this stitch.

    Additional overlock stitches increase the quality of overcasting fabric on a sewing machine. And if you are not going to buy an overlocker in the future, you should pay attention to this when choosing a sewing machine.

    After you have figured out what an overlock sewing machine is, and how overcasting of fabric occurs with lockstitch machines, it will be easy for you to understand why you need such a device, as in this photo. Despite its impressive appearance, its purpose is reduced only to the ability to cut off the edge of the fabric, as if replacing overlock knives. Whether you need it or not, decide for yourself. But whether, after buying it, the sewing machine will become an overlocker, you now already know.

    If you decide to buy a sewing machine and do not plan to buy a separate overlocker in the future, be sure to choose a machine that comes with at least one overcasting foot. And if she also has several varieties of overcasting stitches, then this is quite enough for you to do without an overlock when sewing clothes. Of course, sooner or later, you will need an overlock, but at first you can use a sewing machine with an overlock function.


    An inexpensive foot for 200 rubles can save you several thousand rubles on the purchase of an overlock. Another foot for about the same price will allow you to sew on a hidden zipper quickly, easily and efficiently.


    The price of a sewing machine with an overlocker will depend on the class of the machine. If this is an economy class car, then its price will be about the same as that of other cars. Perhaps it will be a little more expensive, by several hundred rubles, because it will additionally have 2-3 overlock stitches, and an overlock foot will be included in the kit.


    Coverlocks perform a flat seam, an overlock seam and can even be used as a sewing machine. This is perhaps the only sewing machine that can be called an overlock sewing machine without a shadow of a doubt. The only difference is that it will be sewn with a chain stitch.


    The embroidery machine is a kind of artist among sewing machines of any class. Its possibilities are not limited in the truest sense of the word. Starting from simple initials and "bunnies" and ending with an embroidered portrait on fabric from a photograph. All this can be done by a modern embroidery machine.


    For an ironing board with a wooden top, it is not necessary to sew a new cover. The surface of the board can be dragged with a stapler. The studio technologist offers you two ways to quickly and easily make a do-it-yourself ironing board cover.

    Sewing machines with built-in overlockers

    At the beginning of the article, you will have to make a small refutation of its own title. In fact, a sewing machine and an overlocker are completely different mechanisms that are technically impossible to combine in one device. The main difference is how exactly the line is formed in them. In the case of a sewing machine, the bobbin and one needle work. In the case of an overlock, a looper is used, and several loopers and several needles work at the same time. Approximately 80% of overlock models use two loopers and two needles. In addition to directly overcasting, such a device also trims the edge of the fabric, which many sewing machines simply cannot do by default.

    Thus, a sewing machine with a built-in overlock, in fact, can only imitate an overlock stitch, nothing more. Nevertheless, such a compromise is quite reasonable in some cases.

    Advantages and disadvantages of imitation overlock stitching

    The fact that we can buy only one instead of two sewing devices is a definite plus. This perspective is especially pleasing in the context of home use or in a small repair shop. In addition to saving money, we get rid of the need to expand the workplace for two types of sewing equipment, which is also important. And the third positive thing is that you don’t have to set up both the overlocker and the sewing machine, refuel them and just master the nuances of working with both of them.


    And now about the cons, without which it also could not have done. Overlock is not only engaged in stitching two pieces of fabric, it also makes such a line that prevents the edges from fraying, which is very important in the case of loose fabrics. Stitches that imitate an overlock seam do not save from shedding. The second point is the trimming performed in overlockers by default, in the case of a sewing machine, it will require a special foot or scrupulous manual cutting of the edge, and this is another additional operation and additional time costs. Another disadvantage is that the overlock stitch itself is more durable than its imitation. Therefore, if the task is to sew a product that will be subjected to increased stress (for example, it can be dance costumes, overalls, clothes for sports and outdoor activities), imitation of an overlock line may not show its best side.

    How to create an overlock stitch on a sewing machine

    So, we agreed that in this article we will talk about a pseudo-overlock line, which only imitates an overlock line, but in fact it is not. This stitch is suitable for overcasting garments made from a wide variety of materials - cotton, wool, denim or stretch.


    Overlock feet

    Almost always on a sewing machine, a zigzag stitch is used for this purpose. It is less elastic than the classic overlock, since the upper and lower threads in it make quite a strong tension in the stitch. If the fabric with this stitching is stretched, the threads may break. You can remove this effect, but only partially, for this it is enough to slightly reduce the tension of the upper thread. However, the strength of the seam will not increase from this.

    The manufacturer must inform about whether the sewing machine can perform an overlock stitch. But this alone is not enough - you will also need a special foot, also called an overlock. It allows you to overcast without pulling the fabric along the edge, but the protruding edge itself will still have to be carefully trimmed with scissors. If the sewing machine is equipped with a display, for the convenience of the user, the number of the presser foot suitable for overlock stitching will be displayed on it.

    In general, any overlock involves trimming the fabric, but in order to perform an overlock stitch and this operation, you need to purchase a special foot for the sewing machine. It is far from always universal, and you should first make sure that it fits specifically for your model.


    Edge trimming foot with side cutter

    The third option is to use the edging foot. Stitching in this case is carried out with an oblique trim, the width of the edging can be adjusted using the foot.

    When it comes to processing the edges of very thin fabrics (for example, organza or chiffon), a snail foot will come to the rescue. It will allow you to make a neat hem and overcast the edge so that it is elastic enough and does not spoil the appearance of the finished product. Note that overlock for processing such materials is not always suitable.

    Many beginner seamstresses often have a question: why do you need a special foot at all, if you can get a zigzag stitch that resembles an overlock stitch without it? In fact, it is much easier to ensure a smooth and neat seam with a foot than without it. In addition, its presence means that it will be much easier for you to control the width of the distance from the edge of the cut to the needle puncture.

    Types of pseudo-overlock stitches

    In practice, a stitch imitating an overlock may look different. First, it is a closed line, the most popular among seamstresses. Outwardly, it is very similar to the usual zigzag with additional straight stitches from the inside edge. Secondly, this is a slanting line. It is widely used as a hem when finishing tablecloths and napkins. Due to the oblique stitches, it looks very elegant, and it does its main task (to prevent the edges of the fabric from fraying) very well. Also suitable for working with light and whimsical materials, such as chiffon. Thirdly, this is an elastic stitch, which is most suitable for working with knitwear and wool. It is the most extensible against the background of all the others. Fourth, this is a double overlock stitch. It is used for hemming flat elastic, when working with knitted underwear, and simply for processing fabrics that have little stretch. And the last, fifth, option is a double closed line. It has an even wider scope: sewing on flat elastic bands, repairing linen knitwear, simultaneous processes of stitching and overcasting weakly stretching materials, and even certain types of embroidery and decorative trim.

    No matter how expensive and multifunctional a sewing machine that can imitate an overlock stitch is, you cannot do without an overlock in the following cases:

    • you often have to sew from knitted and simply elastic fabrics;
    • you do not have time for regular post-processing of the fabric cut (overlock performs cutting by default);
    • sewing equipment is purchased for professional use.

    Below we will consider the most popular and interesting models of sewing machines, in the arsenal of which there is just an overlock line.

    Sewing machines that will replace the overlocker

    Electromechanical sewing machine with semi-automatic buttonhole and needle threader, capable of performing up to 15 sewing operations. This model is equipped vertical shuttle and copes well with fabrics of different thicknesses, including the ability to perform overlock seams. For the latter, you need to buy a special foot, the kit includes only four standard ones. The cost of this sewing machine is from 12,500 rubles.


    The sewing machine, despite its compact body, impresses with its capabilities. In many ways, this is facilitated by the presence of computer control of operations, the number of which is 294! There are ten ways to perform a loop in automatic mode alone. Among other things, it allows you to make a line with a double needle, is equipped with an informative display, and can cut the threads automatically. This model is not cheap - 48,000 rubles.


    The model belongs to the class of electromechanical sewing machines with a vertical shuttle. Only 13 types of sewing operations are available in it, but among them there are also overlock ones. The machine can make a semi-automatic buttonhole, several types of elastic and decorative stitches, and is equipped with a needle threader. To create an overlock stitch, you can use either the hem foot that comes with the kit, or a special foot that will have to be purchased separately. The purchase of this sewing device will cost about 16,500 rubles.


    The Minerva M87V machine is a good compromise where you need a solid and fairly inexpensive sewing device with the ability to imitate an overlock stitch. it electromechanical model with a vertical type shuttle. Of the main features - 34 types of sewing operations, a double needle stitch, a semi-automatic buttonhole, several types of elastic zigzag stitches and a separate overlock (aka overcasting) stitch. There is an automatic needle threader and a built-in thread cutter, a sleeve console, and a quick change of legs is provided. The cost of this sewing machine is 12,500 rubles.


    A sewing miracle in itself, a real combine in the world of sewing machines. Suffice it to say how many sewing operations it can perform - there are 504 of them. The machine is electronically controlled and is capable of a variety of jobs: sewing, decorating, overcasting, creating appliqués, sewing on buttonholes, buttons and cords, sewing leather goods and much more. other. The shuttle is horizontal, the loop is formed automatically, there is also an automatic thread cutter, needle threader, speed limiter. There are six lines that imitate overlock. This is more than enough to choose the right option for your type of product and type of material. All useful information is displayed on the informative display. The purchase of such a sewing machine will cost 25,000 rubles.


    Summing up, we can say that the purchase of a sewing machine with an imitation of an overlock stitch is still a half measure. Especially when it comes to cars, the cost of which exceeds 25,000 rubles. For a mini-studio or semi-professional work at home, it is better to opt for two separate devices - a sewing machine and an overlocker. If you still set out to save money and you rarely need a real overlock, then such a compromise solution will also have the right to life.