How to make fittings in a toilet cistern. Drain fittings for toilet cistern

Constantly gurgling water in the tank and, as a result, money paid for water supply flowing into the sewer system is a typical picture of a broken toilet. To solve this problem, you need to change the fittings for the flush tank. How to do this and how to choose the right one will be discussed in this article.

Everyone is familiar with the sound of water running in the toilet. This sound indicates that it is time to repair the toilet. At first glance, the problem is very serious and insoluble without the appropriate knowledge and skills. However, this is only at first glance. In fact, toilet repair most often means repairing or replacing broken cistern fittings. This procedure is simple and will not take you much time.

How is the flush cistern constructed? In fact, it contains two devices independent from each other - a fill valve (through which water enters the tank) and a drain column (it ensures the flow of water from the tank into the toilet and, accordingly, flushing). The combination of these two devices forms the fittings for the toilet flush cistern. Various manufacturers offer their models with some unique designs, different shapes and colors. Despite such diversity, it is important to understand that almost all of them are universal (the probability that a universal fitting purchased in a store will suit you is about 95%). That is, knowing your type, you can easily buy the fittings you need at any plumbing store. This article does not cover fittings for built-in tanks at all. The fact is that they just do not fall into the above 95% of universal options.

And so, all that remains is to find out what types of fittings there are and how you can independently determine which one is needed in your case.

Types of fittings for flush cistern

Since the fittings, as mentioned above, consist of two independent devices, the classification can be carried out according to:

1. Fill valve type:
   • with side supply - the valve is mounted on the side wall of the tank. Accordingly, the inlet connection (a flexible hose from the water pipe to the tank) fits from the side;
   • with bottom supply - the valve is mounted on the bottom wall of the tank. In this case, the liner is connected from below.
2. Type of drain column:
   • with a button - to flush, you need to press the button on the tank lid;
   • with a rod - to flush, a rod with a decorative element at the end jerks upward.

It should be noted that push-button speakers, in turn, are also divided into two subtypes:

1. With single flush - one button. When pressed, all the water contained in the tank is drained.
2. With dual flush - this type of speaker has a button divided into two parts. Pressing one flushes using only half of the water contained in the tank, while pressing the other causes a full flush.

Fittings for a dual-flush tank are considered more economical - you can choose the desired mode yourself. Columns with single and double flush are interchangeable, that is, nothing prevents you from buying and installing the one that suits you most, but it should be noted that the tanks have different capacities. For small volumes, a half flush may not be enough.

A hole of a larger diameter was made in the tank lid for the push-button fittings than for the rod fittings. Therefore, in most cases, replacing a column of one type with a column of another will not work.

So, taking into account all the above, we get six types of valves: with a stem with a side connection, with a stem with a bottom connection, with a single button with a side connection, with a single button with a bottom connection, with a double button with a side connection and with a double button with a bottom connection .

Separately, it is worth dwelling on the old-style fittings. Nowadays there are still many cisterns installed on a toilet with such fittings, or cisterns mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet by a pipe, in which old-style fittings are also mounted. It consists of a column with a rod (vertical or lateral) and a side fill valve. Due to design features and softer requirements for efficiency, the drain column from such fittings cannot be replaced with a modern one. All that remains is to either repair and adjust the fittings for the tank so that it does not allow water to pass through, and this is very difficult to achieve, or simply buy a toilet with a modern tank, which is more preferable, especially if you have a water meter installed.

To summarize, we illustrate all types of fittings:

Fill valves. From left to right: bottom supply, side supply, old style

Drain columns. From left to right: push-button, with a rod, old style

How to choose fittings for a tank

Now let's move from theory to practice. When the question arises about purchasing new fittings for a flush cistern, a completely natural desire arises to save some money. It often leads to some typical errors:

1. Despite the fact that fittings are universal, their designs from different manufacturers can differ greatly. Therefore, it is wrong to try to look for only one broken part. Chances are you won't succeed and you'll just be wasting your time. Conclusion - buy only the whole thing. As a last resort, bring the entire fitting element (column or valve) with you to the store. There is a small chance that such a spare part will be found, for example, from defective fittings.
2. It is wrong to look for fittings specifically for your tank, that is, exactly as it was. This is where it is important to remember that they are universal, which means that knowing your type, with a high probability any universal one of the desired type will suit you.

This raises the question, how to determine the type of your fittings?

To determine the type of fill valve, just look at your tank, namely, where the flexible water supply hose is connected to it. If it’s on the side, then you have a valve with a side inlet. If there is no hose on the side, then the valve has a bottom supply. Look under the tank and see for yourself.

To determine the type of drain column, pay attention to what action is performed when flushing. If you press a button, then it’s a push-button one, if you pull the rod, then it’s a column with a rod.

Determine the type of your fittings and choose the name that corresponds to yours (one of those listed above) - this is what you will need to tell the seller when purchasing.

Most likely, the store will offer you several options from different manufacturers and, accordingly, with different prices. What to choose?

The price range is quite wide - from 150 rubles. up to several thousand. To choose a quality one without overpaying, you should pay attention to several nuances:

1. All connections of parts to each other must be strong. Detachable ones, as a rule, snap into place, should fit tightly into each other with a characteristic click. One-piece ones should not have any backlash.
2. Sealing gaskets must be of good quality. Feel them. Soft, plastic and at the same time elastic, speak about the quality of both the gaskets themselves and, accordingly, the fittings as a whole.
3. Equipment - fittings of acceptable quality include all the parts necessary for installation, including bolts securing the tank to the toilet. In some cases, the fittings are equipped with spare parts (usually gaskets). Pay attention to the quality of small items. Unscrupulous manufacturers do not pay due attention to it. The result is low quality components. This should alert you.

Generally speaking, you need to know that the price of rod fittings of acceptable quality starts from 10 USD. e., for push-button ones - from 15 USD. e. At a price of 30 USD. That is, you can buy very good fittings with an increased service life (as a rule, this is reflected in an increased warranty period).

So, the fittings have been purchased, all that remains is to install them.

Replacement of fittings

Replacement of fittings begins with dismantling the old one. In some cases, there is no need to completely change the fittings. It is enough, for example, to change only the drain column or fill valve. If you change the column, you will have to completely remove the tank. Replacing the fill valve will not require this. In any case, you must first dismantle the old elements. Let's consider this process in full step by step using a specific example. Let's take this toilet as an experimental sample:

It can be seen that it has a one-button fitting with a bottom supply. The procedure for replacing any other one, including a rod one, for example, with a side supply, will differ little from that described. Differences in operations will be noted.

All work begins with shutting off the water at the inlet to the tank or the entire water supply branch. After this, you need to flush the water in the tank into the toilet.

1. Remove the button. In our case, it turns counterclockwise. It happens that the button is attached to the tank lid. The cover will then be removed without dismantling it. Then just move on to the second step. For rod fittings - unscrew the decorative knob on the rod and unscrew the cover that covers the hole in the tank through which the rod passes (of course, if it was screwed on).

2. Remove the cover and see this picture. In the center is a drain column. On the side there is a fill valve. If the length of the supply hose is sufficient to remove the tank and place it on top of the toilet, then move on to the next point. Otherwise, turn off the eyeliner.

3. The drain column is collapsible - consists of two parts. To make it easier to carry out work, we dismantle the upper part. To do this, turn it 90° (it will detach from the bottom part with a snap):

and take out:

The bottom of the column will remain inside. On the sides of it you can see the heads of the bolts securing the tank to the toilet.

4. Unscrew the fastening nuts under the tank. As a rule, this can be done simply by hand.

After draining, a small amount of water will remain. When the nuts are unscrewed, this water will flow out. So put a rag on it.

5. Now nothing prevents you from lifting the tank up and placing it on the toilet for the convenience of subsequent work.

There is a sealing gasket left at the landing site:

6. In our case, dismantling the tank could be done without first disconnecting the liner. If it is necessary to change the filling valve, then we perform this operation now.

Flexible hoses can be twisted and unscrewed by hand. The key is used only when absolutely necessary.

7. Unscrew the column mounting nut:

and valve mounting nut:

8. Take everything out of the tank. Here, in fact, this is the dismantled fittings:

Now you can begin installing the new fittings. All operations are performed in the reverse order, the only caveat is that for convenience, it makes sense to put the gasket between the tank and the toilet on the fastening nut before installation.

The entire operation takes five to ten minutes. Threaded connections, as mentioned, are screwed in by hand and only if necessary are tightened with a wrench.

You can endlessly try to repair old leaking fittings, being surprised every month by the huge bills for consumed water, or you can spend 10 minutes and radically solve the problem for a long time by simply replacing the fittings completely. Now you know how to do this.

Today we have a small master class on installing fittings in a cistern and on installing the cistern itself on the toilet. The toilet itself has already been installed, there is nothing complicated here, but many people have problems with the tank and the fittings that are installed in it.

I want to make it clear right away that this information is not for professionals; there is nothing for professionals to learn here.

Scope of delivery overview

Let's now see what we have here.

These are our mounting bolts.

Drain valve with control fittings.

Sealing ring. The small one is placed under the valve, and the large one under the tank itself - now I’ll show you everything.

And finally, a button.

Let's take a look at this valve first.

What's in it? The nut is pressed, then there is a rubber lining - it remains on our valve. So we simply turn the rod, and our float moves along this rod, and thereby we regulate the filling of the tank. I usually put it somewhere in the middle.

Now let's look at the tank itself. We have four holes here.

The smallest holes are for the bolts that secure the tank, the large hole is for the main drain valve, the middle hole in the corner is for installing the float valve.

Tank assembly

We insert the float valve with the thread into this hole and tighten it with a nut on the reverse side.

The valve has been installed. We make sure that it does not block the small hole. We try to make sure it rises and falls normally without touching the edges of the tank. Also, then you can lower the drain valve and make sure that they do not interfere with each other in the tank.

Take an adjustable or regular wrench and tighten the nut. Don’t pull too hard; you don’t need a lot of force; the nut may burst or the thread will break, and then you’ll have to buy this valve separately.

We have the valve, now we are installing the drain fittings. We take a small ring and install it in this place.

Now we take out the bolts that secure the tank itself. We need to assemble these bolts correctly. First we install the plastic washer.

There are also metal washers and brass washers. Next, we put on such a conical elastic band with the base down.

We have one bolt assembled. Now we assemble the second one in the same sequence. Install the washer, install the rubber cone. For convenience, you can remove the drain valve - just remove it from the latch, the lower part then remains, and the upper part is removed so that you can conveniently install the bolt.

Now we will need to tighten them with nuts. To do this, we install a plastic washer and tighten the nut. Now we take a screwdriver, a 10mm wrench and tighten our nuts. A screwdriver is needed to secure the bolt.

Installing a cistern on a toilet

We take our large gasket and install it in this place.

We install the tank on top. We still have these plastic nuts left.

We screw them in from the bottom of the tank. Don’t even try to twist anything other than your hands - everything must be fixed there by hand, otherwise the tank or the platform on which it is installed may burst. Then we take and latch the drain valve.

Install the cover.

That's all, our button is installed. Now we connect the hose to the tank. You don't need to pull the hose too hard either. Open the tap and see if it drips, you can tighten it further.

When the tank is full, visually check the space below for leaks. You can take a napkin or toilet paper and wipe the bottom of the tank. If there are any smudges, the paper will show. Let's flush and make sure there are no leaks.

That's all, the work on installing the tank is finished.

All rights to the video belong to: Master in Dom62TV

The design of the toilet cistern directly affects the interior of the room and its price, so you should carefully study it before purchasing. For example, if you decide to purchase a toilet with a hanging cistern, you need to prepare for additional costs, because this design requires that the cistern will be suspended at a certain height, which means that you will need to purchase an additional connecting pipe, which will need to be placed directly above the toilet .

The cistern fitting is an additional device with which the cistern is filled with water to a certain level.

According to the method of draining water, tanks are divided into:

1. Side with float valve, which uses a float valve with a water seal, chain and drain lever. The mechanism of this model provides that the valve will rise to the surface under the influence of water pressure, which, upon completion of draining, fills the container. After complete filling, further access to water is blocked.
2. The top one has a non-float valve, in which the valve is made in the form of a plastic cylinder that lowers and rises when flushed manually.

The plumbing fittings for the flush tank are an additional hermetically sealed device, which is responsible for filling the tank with a certain amount of liquid after it is empty, and the flush fittings for the toilet bowl are a device that is mechanically actuated and is responsible for the dosed drainage of water (this avoids overflowing) . In older models, the toilet tank required a shut-off valve with a float valve. The operating mechanism of this model was based on the principle of back pressure.

Fittings for cistern

Drain mechanism diagram.

1. A button that is attached to the lid. It can also be attached to the drain mechanism, but to remove it you need to unscrew the button counterclockwise.
2. Filling inlet fittings, filler valve, float valve, ball valve are different names for a device that is designed to fill a tank with water and regulate its quantity.
3. The plug is a necessary device in cases where there is a side supply of the tank to the toilet. The plug is installed on the opposite side of the fill valve connection.
4. Plumbing fittings to ensure drainage.

How to install or replace a separate tank

First of all, a flush pipe is connected to the tank. It has a standard diameter of 32 mm. After this, the height of the flush pipe is marked on the wall. In this case, the drain tank is raised on the pipe so that its lower end is located at the required height. In this position, all attachment points are marked.

The drain tank must be placed strictly horizontally. To do this, the line that connects the attachment points should be level. Using a drill, holes are drilled at the previously marked points. The drain barrel is secured with dowels. Some models are secured with special brackets.

How to install or replace a low-mounted tank

This model involves fixing the device directly to the shelf of the sanitary ware itself. First of all, the sealing gasket is fixed. Often these elements are self-adhesive. Fastening to the shelf is carried out using special bolts. This fitting is equipped with cone-shaped rubber gaskets that must be placed inside the tank.

To prevent water from leaking when the nuts are tightened, all through holes should be sealed with gaskets.

Drainage tank device.

After screwing in the bolts, the tank is installed on the toilet. To do this, align the bolts of the device with the holes on the toilet shelf and tighten the tightening nuts.

After installation, the tank is connected to the water supply system. To do this, connect a hose that will supply cold water. In this case, the washer should be checked for the presence of a gasket. If it is missing, the connection will begin to leak. After this, water is poured into the container. If the plumbing is installed correctly, then all connections will remain dry and the toilet can be used.

How to install a tank in the wall

Some bathroom models require the installation of toilets with tanks that are hidden in the wall. These plumbing fixtures are not only visually appealing but are also quite practical. Such modifications save space and cannot be split.

Models that are built into the wall are made of super durable plastic. In appearance, they resemble ordinary standard products and look like a wide flat canister. Installation is carried out on a rough wall or in a specially prepared mounting frame combined with the frame of a wall-hung toilet. For such a tank, a set of fasteners comes along with the product itself.

To correctly install or replace a tank in the wall, you must strictly follow the recommendations given by the manufacturer in the attached instructions. Built-in cisterns have a flush panel that protrudes from the rough wall or is attached separately to it. There are usually two buttons on this panel to drain different volumes of water. With this device you can save water.

Troubleshooting drainage problems

Failures of the drain mechanism usually occur unexpectedly and can lead to a real disaster. In order to avoid serious problems, and so that neighbors do not have to make repairs, all damage must be repaired immediately. Most often, a problem arises when the tank begins to continuously fill with water and begins to leak continuously. Sometimes, to eliminate such a problem, it is impossible to do without completely or partially replacing the fittings for the drain tank. The cause of malfunctions may be wear of rubber gaskets, seals, shut-off valves or other parts.

Tools required to replace fittings:

All minor malfunctions in the operation of the cistern fittings must be corrected as soon as possible, otherwise the consequences could be dire for the neighbors below.

1. To tighten the fastening, use a 13 key.
2. To unscrew the water supply hose, use a 22 key.
3. Adjustable wrench (replaces 2 previous tools).
4. Tank fittings.
5. Sealing tape.
6. Lubrication.

Float valve replacement technology:

1. Water is completely drained from the tank.
2. Using a wrench, unscrew the fitting that connects the water pipe to the float valve.
3. The lever is disconnected.
4. The inner and outer fixing nuts are unscrewed.
5. The float valve is removed.
6. A new valve is installed and the float lever is attached back. It is advisable to use the same fixing nuts.
7. Water is released into the tank.
8. The float lever is fixed in the desired position.

Siphon membrane replacement technology:

Diagram of a float device on low-set flush tanks.

1. The float lever is tied to a crossbar, which is pre-attached in place of the lid.
2. Water drains from the container.
3. The siphon nut is loosened.
4. The siphon is disconnected from the drain lever.
5. The membrane is changing.
6. Next, you should reassemble all the fittings that were involved in the reverse order.

The problem of noisy filling of the tank can be eliminated by installing a muffler. To do this, a flexible plastic tube is attached to the float valve. If this does not help, then a stabilizing float valve may come in handy. If the toilet tank begins to leak, you need to replace the gasket or tighten the nut.

Having the necessary tools and devices, knowing the design of the drain tank and the technology for replacing fittings, you can carry out all the work to eliminate problems yourself and not waste money on calling specialists.

The toilet is an integral household element of any apartment, and it is always designed for a long service life. In addition to its outer part, it has a drainage device, which is also called a fitting. It is this equipment that requires periodic maintenance and sometimes repairs. In addition, during the initial installation of the toilet, it is very important to select all its elements correctly.

The outer part of the toilet consists of the following elements:

The toilet fittings perform the functions of draining and filling water into the tank. It consists of the following elements:

When assembled, the fittings look like this.

Components and principle of operation of the drain system

• stand with tank;
• lid;
• button for flushing (nowadays 2 buttons are often used).

• a float that regulates the filling of water into the tank when the level is insufficient;
• a shutter that closes the hole in the tank when the flush is completed;
• traction in the form of a barbell or chain.

The toilet operating cycle is shown in the video.

A schematic representation of the toilet fittings in the figure below.

Pressing the siphon cover opens access to the pipe where the water drains. As a result, the water level in the tank drops, and the float filled with air drops.

The tank operates in 2 modes - draining and filling water.

• In flush mode, the toilet flushes waste by mechanically opening the drain hole and supplying a large volume of water. In old mechanisms, a special handle is raised, in new ones, buttons (one or two) are pressed. If there are two buttons, then pressing them simultaneously gives a more complete pressure, while one button gives a standard pressure.
• In the mode of supplying water to the tank, it comes from the pipe through the side channel. The float lowers and water flows freely into the tank. When it reaches the desired level, the current stops due to the raising of the float.

The operation of the device is based on the principle of a water seal - the drain pipe always has a curved appearance, due to which there is always a certain volume of clean water in it. It blocks the access of odors from the sewer to the apartment. Excess water from the tank also flows into the same pipe, so it never overflows and floods the room. The water circulation is shown schematically in the figure.

In this case, water can enter the tank in two ways:

• The bottom feed mechanism involves water entering the tank from below. The float moves vertically and puts pressure on the device that closes the drain (membrane), as a result of which, when the optimal filling level is reached, the flow of water into the container stops.
• The top feed mechanism is more traditional - water comes from a special pipe due to the downward movement of the float, and then, when it reaches the optimal amount, the float rises and blocks access. This mechanism is simpler, but it is noisier than the first.

The operation of toilet fittings is discussed in detail in the video.

Thus, the toilet fittings work due to ordinary forces of attraction.

Types of toilets

There are quite a large number of types of toilets. This diversity is explained by different appearances and different fusion mechanisms. pressure force, etc.

So, based on the location of the drain pipe, there are:

• toilets with horizontal flush;
• with oblique drain;
• with vertical drain.

Depending on the type of flush, toilets can be:

• horizontal (cascade);
• circular (shower).

In the first case, water enters the toilet sink directly and flushes away waste with a strong flow. The second option is more effective, since the pressure flows along the inner surface of the rim, due to which vortices of water are formed, which well carry all objects along with them. At the same time, a circular drain is quieter than a horizontal drain, since the water flows more evenly.

Based on the relative position of the tank and the base of the toilet, the following types are distinguished:

• compact;
• monoblock;
• angular;
• separated.

The first 3 varieties form a single whole with the tank and vary depending on the size of the toilet room. The second is separate, and the tank can often be hidden in the wall. These types are often installed in large shopping centers.

Also, toilets can be made of different materials:

• earthenware (in most cases);
• metal (for example, in train cars).

Vacuum toilet

There is a vacuum toilet in a separate row. It uses a different drain mechanism. In this case, the toilet fittings work not only due to water draft, but also with the help of air flow. Its main difference from ordinary ones is that it includes:

• valve that opens at the touch of a button;
• a vacuum pump that creates low pressure in a sealed chamber.

When the button is pressed, the valve opens and air begins to be sucked into the toilet due to the greatly reduced pressure in the chamber. This air, along with water, provides strong pressure to remove residues. At the same time, a characteristic sound is produced, which has been heard by everyone who has used the toilet on long-distance trains - there they are in all cars.

IMPORTANT. If usually from 4 to 7-8 liters of water are used for flushing, then a vacuum toilet spends no more than 1.5-2. In fact, it saves 2-3 times more water than a conventional system. This is achieved by using air to create pressure. Therefore, vacuum toilets are often installed in apartments.

Types of toilet fittings

The toilet fittings are its most important component, the correct selection and installation of which determines the functioning of the system as a whole, as well as the duration of its trouble-free use.

The classification of fittings depends on their design. For example, according to the method of actuating the drain mechanism itself, it happens:

• exhaust fittings (rod) - to drain, simply lift the handle or pull the rope with the tip, the locking element opens the drain hole, and water flows into the bowl with waste;
• push-button (another name is push-button) - the most common option with a push-button drain.

Depending on the characteristics of the float device, there are:

• piston valves - the float is linked to the piston by a special lever, which moves the piston horizontally. A special gasket is glued to the lower end of the piston, which closes the water supply when the optimal level is reached;
• membrane - instead of a gasket, a membrane made of rubber or silicone is installed. It reliably blocks access to excess water volumes. It lasts a very long time, therefore it is considered the most correct choice;
• The Croydon valve ensures vertical movement of the piston; it is not used in modern toilets.

Perhaps the most important classification of toilet fittings is based on the principle of its operation.

Shut-off valves for toilet

This name describes the main function of this mechanism. It closes the water supply opening when there is enough liquid in the tank. And on the contrary, it opens a hole. when the waste was flushed. The constituent elements of such a system are:

• glass where the mechanism is located;
• valve with attached membrane;
• float;
• craving;
• guide

When flushing occurs, the float goes down following the dropped water level, the draft presses on the valve and opens it, as a result of which volumes of new water enter the container. Water will be poured in until the float returns up with it and the membrane reliably closes the valve.

Toilet flush fittings

Toilet flush fittings provide a direct flushing process for waste. In addition, it provides emergency water discharge when the tank is overfilled for some reason.

Drainage is ensured by opening the drain hole with a piston and closing it immediately after flushing due to gravity.

The toilet fittings must be optimally suited to each specific device and its technical parameters. One of these important indicators is the peculiarities of supplying new water to the toilet tank.

Fittings for toilet bowl with bottom connection

As mentioned, this is a more efficient and quieter way of delivering water. It is often installed in modern toilets. In these cases, fresh water is pumped from the water supply located below directly into the toilet tank.

This also creates a more aesthetic appearance of the device, since all communications are hidden from view.

In cases with bottom water supply, special attention when purchasing toilet fittings should be paid to sealed gaskets. The fact is that the forced supply of water from the bottom up creates constant pressure on the pipe, as a result of which leakage is often observed. However, reliable sealing of all connections makes it possible to practically eliminate this phenomenon.

Side eyeliner

This is a classic option that can be found in any old apartment. Water is poured through a special hole on the side, and it is located above the water level.

In this case, the fittings are supplied directly to the water pipe, from where water flows. It has a push-button valve with a metal button.

You can learn more about the species in this video.

How to choose toilet fittings

If the question arises about replacing old fittings or buying a toilet and flushing device for a new apartment, then before making a choice, you need to evaluate what parameters of the toilet bowl and cistern you are selecting the flush system for, how important water saving, noise and pressure are to you , aesthetics.

IMPORTANT. The last thing you should pay attention to is the price factor. You can choose cheaper offers from various stores among a particular product, but choosing the cheapest model initially is more expensive for yourself. The fact is that poor-quality articulation of components and the short-lived material from which they are composed will not allow the system to function for as long as we would like. There will often be cases when a leak occurs or the flush becomes weaker, etc. Therefore, it is better to pay extra for quality than to waste time and money solving problems.

Models and prices

High-quality models are supplied to the market by manufacturers of well-known brands, such as Wirquin, Optima Siamp, AlcaPlast and some others. Approximate prices for them are presented in the table below.

The toilet fittings and its components are generally quite affordable, and installing them yourself will not be difficult. The cost increases not only depending on the initial quality of the parts. but also on the complexity of the mechanism. So, two-button flush systems are more expensive. Besides. Some of them are equipped with a manually controlled flush stop system - this allows you to save water consumption.

Replacing toilet fittings with your own hands

You can install the fittings by inviting a plumber, but if you figure it out well, you can do it yourself. Moreover, when purchased, the kit always comes with instructions that describe the installation algorithm in detail.

Video instructions for replacing toilet fittings

When installing the system with your own hands, the main elements with which you will work will be:

• float;
• twists - connect the float to the tap;
• supply fitting;
• float valve, which is attached to the fitting.

Schematically the system looks like this.

In general, you need to carry out the following sequence of actions:

• If we are talking about replacing fittings, first carefully remove the old one. To do this, the water supply to the tank is shut off (usually there is a special control valve for this), and the nuts and screws supporting the piston struts are carefully unscrewed. All fitting connections are unscrewed and the system is removed.
• The elements of the new fittings are assembled according to the instructions: the drain mechanism is installed on a special sealed gasket. Next, it is screwed into the tank using a plastic nut.
• The bolts are inserted into the holes, and on the other side they are screwed with nuts, and plastic washers are put on top.
• The tank with the assembled fittings for the toilet is attached to the bowl. This is usually done using the self-adhesive rubber that comes with the kit, as well as with bolts that are carefully tightened with nuts.
• Next, a hose is connected through which water will be supplied to the tank.
• If the fittings have additional mechanisms, they need to be adjusted to your needs. For example, you can choose the optimal position of the glass. by moving it up or down; You can also slightly change the position of the drain pipe. During the first days of operation, take a closer look at how much water is wasted. If too much of it is poured out, then you need to adjust the fittings so that less water enters the tank. More details can be found here

IMPORTANT. When assembling the entire system, pay special attention to tightness - carefully fasten all connections, fit rubber gaskets tightly. In the first week after installation, you need to be especially careful to check for leaks. If even small droplets form, the system must be disassembled and reassembled, since in the future the cracks will only increase.

Possible problems during operation

Over time, during the operation of any, even the highest quality toilet fittings, malfunctions in the system may occur:

• Water leaking from the outside of the pipe. Here the reason is obvious - a leaky gasket. Perhaps it was installed incorrectly, or it has already worn out and moved away from the surface. To begin with, you can try screwing the nut that connects the tank to the pipe until it stops. But if the leak continues, then you need to turn off the water and pull the gasket out from under the tank with careful movements. When it appears completely, you need to remove it by making several windings of fluoroplastic sealing material (fum).
• If the lever that drains the water does not work, then you need to replace its components; usually they are of universal sizes, and this procedure will not be particularly difficult.
• If the water does not drain at all, then you need to adjust the angle of the lever to which the float is attached. This is done using a plastic screw.
• If the drainage occurs unevenly, sometimes in large or sometimes small portions, this indicates that the fastening of the lever has become looser. You need to tighten the bolt and in this position adjust the lever to the required level
• If too much water is poured in, it means the float is broken. It may be a little skewed or its mechanism may not be working. You either need to fix the spoke
• If, on the contrary, the drain has become weak and water flows out in small quantities, then most likely the pipe connecting the tank and the bowl is clogged. It needs to be cleaned.
• If limescale deposits form inside the tank, then you need to drain all the water, block the access to fresh water and wipe off the deposit with citric acid, then rinse it with water.
• If there is a sewer smell in the apartment, this indicates that due to a strong pressure drop in the sewer pipe, the water level in the elbow (flush) has dropped sharply - this can be seen with the naked eye. It is possible that the connection between the drain and the sewer was not installed correctly, in which case it needs to be redone, otherwise the smell will continue to flow. Another option is that the drain is dirty; it needs to be cleaned with a plunger or a plumbing cable.

How to save water for drainage

Properly selected and installed fittings not only ensure high-quality drainage, but also help save water.

You can experiment with saving if you notice that the drain is too strong and water is wasted. There is one simple option for this - to reduce the volume of water supplied to the tank after draining.

• Pour into a 1.5-2 liter plastic bottle, add up to half the volume of sand or small stones for weight, and then add water.
• Carefully place this bottle to the side so that it does not catch the moving mechanisms of the fittings.
• Close the toilet lid.

At first glance, a saving of 2 liters is small. But if you do even 7-8 flushes a day, you will save at least 300 liters of water in a month, i.e. almost half a cubic meter. Convert it into money and feel the difference.

Another method involves using water from the sink to flush away waste.

In this case, of course, a re-equipment of the entire system is required. However, if we are talking about newly created communication, take a closer look at this idea. The fact is that the toilet consumes up to 25% of the total volume of water consumption, and such a measure can significantly save resources.

Another option is to purchase a water flush restrictor. Read more about it here.

With average consumption, the savings per year will be about 2,500 rubles.

Toilet care

And of course, we should not forget that in order to maintain cleanliness and prolong the service life of the toilet bowl and cistern, you need to follow simple rules for caring for them:

It is important not only to choose the right plumbing fixtures, but also to regularly care for them. Then it will serve you for a very long time.

Carrying out some actions with equipment and mechanisms in terms of repair is a pleasant activity for most of our men. Therefore, the failure of the same drain fittings in the toilet cistern does not seem like a tragic event to many. Let's try to understand this issue using the diagram in the photo, as well as video instructions.

Device

Let's start with the basics - compact toilet design. In this design, the tank is placed on the shelf of the bowl. This format is easy to maintain and inexpensive. The design includes the following elements:

• Cistern. Water can be supplied to it either from below or from the side. In the case of a toilet with a side water supply, there are two holes, water is supplied through one, and the other is closed with a plug. There is a drain button on top. Typically, the volume of a standard tank is up to 10 liters.
• Drain system. In another way, it is called a drain fitting or a drain mechanism, consisting of a drain lever and a drain siphon. When the button is pressed, the drain hole opens. When the tank is empty, the hole closes. The release lever is most often controlled by a button.
• Filling system – shut-off valves. When the tank is empty, water fills it to a certain volume. The shut-off valve can be a piston valve or a diaphragm valve. The system includes a shut-off element and a float element. When the water level changes, the float moves down and up. The lever attached to it closes the valve and the water supply stops. When the water drains, the float drops and the lever unlocks the valve.
• Bowl. The sewer drain can be oblique or straight. The tank is secured to the bowl shelf by a bolted connection with a rubber gasket.

Replacement

You need to start by preparing the necessary tools and materials. It should be noted that repair of drain fittings most often comes down to replacing the rubber bulb that closes the drain hole. If you need to replace all the fittings, it will take more time.

To perform the operation you will need:

• new set of fittings;
• wrenches and adjustable wrenches;
• roulette.

During installation, you will have to perform three main steps: installing the tank on the toilet shelf, connecting to the water supply, and adjusting the fittings.

First, a gasket is installed on the shelf. Typically, it has a self-adhesive backing to ensure that the gasket adheres well. The tank is secured using a special fastening in the form of bolts with spacers, so as not to damage the coating. They are made in the shape of a cone to prevent possible leakage. Do not tighten the bolts too much, so as not to break one of the ceramic products. As a result, the first task was solved - the tank was installed.

Next we connect the water supply. To do this, we make a connection from the pipe with cold water, connect the valve so that, if necessary, you can turn off the water supply. Next, we connect the hose that will supply water to the tank. When connecting the hose to the toilet outlet, use a rubber gasket to avoid leaks.

Installation of drain fittings

Assembly is carried out according to the scheme most often supplied with the drain fittings themselves. You can also see the universal diagram in the photo. The procedure is performed before installing the tank.

You need to place a gasket on the drain mechanism, insert the fittings, and tighten the plastic nut. Place gaskets on the fastening bolts, insert them into the holes, then tighten the washer.

At the end, all that remains is to put the lid on and add a button.

Adjustment

It should be noted that we considered a standard situation when the settings of the drain fittings from the manufacturer coincide with the necessary ones. However, there are cases when it is still necessary to adjust the position of the drain fittings.

The procedure will not create difficulties. To do this you need to do the following:

• disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe;
• press out the glass fastening;
• rearranging the stand.

You can adjust the water level like this:

• you need to change the position of the glass, for which you can use a guide: you should leave a distance of at least 4.5 cm from the top level of the glass to the edge of the tank;
• the overflow tube must be positioned 7 cm below the stand, but 2 cm above the maximum water level.

To adjust a small flush, adjust its float to the level, taking into account the location of the overflow tube. The maximum flush is regulated by the position of the damper in relation to the glass. In both cases the position is changed by moving up or down. In this case, changing the position down will increase water consumption.

Build Quality Check

Without this, it is impossible to guarantee the uninterrupted operation of the toilet, so the result must be monitored. To do this, you need to drain the water when the tank is assembled. Don’t forget to open the valve that was installed before connecting to the hose. We wait until the tank is filled with water and release the flow again. We check the joints of the parts for leaks. After filling the tank, water should not flow into the bowl. If something goes wrong, you should either reconfigure the drain fittings or reassemble the structure.

After quality control of the assembly, you can proceed to full operation of the product.